An all-star expedition comprised of American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, Savannah Cumins, Alex Honnold, Anna Pfaff, Cedar Wright and the cameraman Pablo Durana is currently in Queen Maud Land in Antarctica where various members have managed to establish a flurry of new rock climbs.
A video documenting a part of the amazing ascent carried out by Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright as they set a new speed record on The Nose, El Capitan,Yosemite on 21 October 2017 when they climbed the route in 2:19:44.
On 14 October 2017 German alpinist Thomas Huber and the Swissmen Stephan Siegrist and Julian Zanker made the first ascent of ‘Har Har Mahadev’, a new climb up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar. This is only the 4th ascent of the 6155 m peak located in the Indian Himalaya.
Interview with American climber Jim Reynolds who on 21 October 2017 teamed up with Brad Gobright to speed climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 2:19:44. In doing so they beat the previous speed record set in 2012 by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by almost four minutes.
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
27-year-old Hayden Kennedy and his girlfriend Inge Perkins have lost their lives. Kennedy was considered one of the leading climbers of his generation.
On 2 August 2017 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek carried out the second repeat of Project Fear (8c, 550 m) up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Rock climbing beyond the limits: thoughts about the scope of Alex Honnold's recent free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan (Yosemite).
American rock climber Alex Honnold has made a free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite. In doing so he has become the first person to climb El Capitan without ropes.
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.
Big wall climbing: interview with South Tyrol’s Jacopo Larcher who last autumn, together with Barbara Zangerl made the third free ascent of Free Zodiac up the SE Face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster on nearby Ogre II.
After 5 days on the wall Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl made a free ascent of the Zodiac, the historic big wall climb on the southeast face of El Capitan, Yosemite.
Climbing news from Yosemite: Katharina Saurwein has repeated Final Frontier, while on El Capitan Jorg Verhoeven is attempting Dihedral Wall and Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are trying their luck at the free version of The Zodiac.
On Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener Alps, German rock climber and alpinist Ines Papert has repeated Scaramouche (300m, 8a), a rarely repeated climb put up by the Huber brothers in 1989.
On 31 August 2016 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek made the second free ascent of the difficult Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
The search and rescue efforts have been called off for Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, the American alpinists last seen on Monday, August 22, 2016 on the North Face of Ogre 2, Pakistan.
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll wall and the first ascent of via Degli studenti up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) by the Italians Giorgio Travaglia, Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth.