American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.
In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).
Climbing together with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Robert Schaeli has carried out what is believed to be only the second free ascent of the 'La vida es silbar' up the legendary north face of the Eiger, Switzerland. Established in 1998-99 by Daniel Anker and Stephan Siegrist, the 900m line was freed in 2003 by Siegrist and Ueli Steck with difficulties up to 7c.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.
In October 2015 alpinists Hayden Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6173m), as well as climbing a new route up the South Ridge of Chomochior (6278m) in Indian Kashmir Himalayas.
Daniele Nardi tells about the expedition to Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out together with the Spanish mountaineers Alex Txikon, Txus Lizarraga, Adrian Legarra, Ekaitz
In September and October 2015 Andreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of Bhala 5900m, Tupendeo 5700m and Maha Dev Phobrang 5900m and its famous Te tower, three hitherto unclimbed mountains in the Kashmir region of India's Himalaya.
The video of Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi repeating the rock climb Magic Mushroom up the North Face of the Eiger, Switzerland.
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
58 ascents carried out in 2014 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 9 - 12 April, 2015 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.
In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new route up Kishtwar Shivling, making what is believed to be only the mountains second ascent.
On Sunday 9 March Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold solo climbed Crack Baby up the Breitwangflue in Switzerland in a mere 27 minutes and 13 seconds.
Britain's Andy Kirkpatrick and the Norwegians Kjersti Eide, Espen Fadnes, Aleksander Gamme, Ingeborg Jakobsen and Jonas Langseth have successfully made the first complete ascent of the South ridge of Ulvetanna (2931m) in Antarctica.
On 30 July Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio succeeded in a rare winter ascent of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
The two British climbers Dave MacLeod and Calum Muskett have repeated Paciencia (8a, 900m) up the North Face of the Eiger.
The North East ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (2931m) in the Antarctica has been climbed for the first time by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone and David Reeves.
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Swiss climbers Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann have failed in their attempt to forge a new route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia