American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arginonta Valley and Black Buddha, two new crags on the island of Kalymnos, Greece.
Climbing together with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Robert Schaeli has carried out what is believed to be only the second free ascent of the 'La vida es silbar' up the legendary north face of the Eiger, Switzerland. Established in 1998-99 by Daniel Anker and Stephan Siegrist, the 900m line was freed in 2003 by Siegrist and Ueli Steck with difficulties up to 7c.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award.
The video of Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi repeating the rock climb Magic Mushroom up the North Face of the Eiger, Switzerland.
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.
This December Roger Schaeli and Simon Gietl established Let's get wild (600m, 7a, 90°), their new route up Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in Patagonia.
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.
At the start of August an international team of alpinists comprised of Roger Schäli, Thomas Ulrich, Simon Gietl and Daniel Kopp carried out the first ascent of Eventyr (7a+, 1300m) on the Grundtvigskirken in Greenland.
Andrej Grmovsek from Slovenia has carried out the first repeat in a single day of Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites.