Alessandro Beber reports about the first ascent of 'Spes Ultima Dea', a huge new rock climb up Crozon di Brenta in the Italian Brenta Dolomites, established over three days with Gianni Canale.
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno Salvaterra, Thomas Franchini and Nicola Binelli.
During three weekends between 2012 and 2013 Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti, Stefano Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro and Adriano Cavallaro made the first ascent of Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro up beautiful Punta Giradili above Baunei in Sardinia. 230m high, established ground-up, with 7c obligatory climbing and two crux pitches still to be freed, probably at 8b. Canale provides the details.
On Saturday 12 January 2013 Giorgio Bertagnolli and Cristian Defant made the first repeat of Via Valeria on Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites, the ice climb established on 6-7 January 2013 by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti with difficulties up to VI- ice, M6, VI+ rock.
On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb "Brothers" up Cima Grostè and the rock climb "Ladri" up Campanile Basso.
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for the coming future.
On Piccolo Dain (Valle del Sarca, Arco, Italy) Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro have established Le Vrai Plaisir - (Pampers) (8a+, 7c obbl, 425m).
La tigre, il daino e il gladiatore, new multi-pitch on Limarò, Piccolo Dain Valle del Sarca, Arco, Italy, established by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti e Franco Cavallaro and graded 380m, 7c+/8a, 7c obligatory.
Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti have made the first ascent of "Mister Magoo" (7c, 120m) on Piccolo Dain, Valle del Sarca, Arco.