14/02/2017: The mountaineers attempting to climb Everest in winter without supplementary oxygen have returned to Base Camp. Alex Txikon, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa had reached South Col at 7950m but were forced to descend due to high winds. 12/02/2017: The Everest winter expedition without supplementary oxygen led by Alex Txikon continues to make progress. The Basque mountaineer, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa and have now reached Camp 3 (7400m).
The Spanish expedition led by Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon to climb Everest in winter and without supplementary oxygen has begun in earnest. A weather window is forecast for 14 to 18 February 2017.
On 19/01/2017 Hansjörg Auer and Reinhard Obweger made the first ascent of Freizeitstress, a new mixed climb in Ötztal, Austria.
A mixed team of climbers from Montenegro and Serbia, comprised of Nikola Đurić, Dušan Branković, Dušan Starinac, Danilo Pot and Ivan Laković, recently climbed the two highest frozen waterfalls in Montenegro: Strast (WI5+, 150m) and Mali zec (WI4, 150m) in the Tara canyon close to Dobrilovina. Laković provides the report.
In Val Genova (Brenta Dolomites) Luca Tamburini and Giorgio Tameni made a rare repeat of the beautiful and enormous icefall La Stangata, first climbed in 2012 by Patrick Ghezzi and Alessandro Lucchi.
On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).
The last stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup was held last weekend in Corvara; HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song won both the stage in Val Passiria and the overall World Cup. The fastest Speed climbers were Pavel Batushev and Ekaterina Feoktistova, while the Speed World Cup was won by Vladimir Kartashev and, in the women’s event, by Ekaterina Koshcheeva and Maria Tolokonina.
Winter mountaineering in Italy’s Piedmont region: in Valle Orco Marco Appino and Umberto Bado, together with David Sacchetti, completed Vanessa neire robe, a mixed climb they had begun in 2010. Umberto Bado provides the report.
Winter mountaineering: Enrico Mosetti reports about the first ascent of Panta rei, a new mixed climb in Valbruna (Julian Alps, Italy) first ascended on 24/01/2017 with Tine Cuder.
Over the coming weekend the small village of Corvara in Val Passiria, Dolomites, Italy, will host a stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017. A total of 100 ice climbers from 20 countries and three continents have registered. Live streaming of all Saturday and Sunday stages.
Alpinism: on 18/01/2017 German alpinist Michi Wohlleben, climbing with Lukas Binder, made the first ascent of 'Stirb langsam' (M11+/WI6+, 200m) a difficult new ice and mixed climb in the Wetterstein massif, Tyrol, Austria.
World-class alpinist Aleš Česen introduces Slap Peričnik, the famous waterfall below Mt. Triglav. In winter this transforms into one of the most spectacular icefalls in Slovenia and an unforgettable experience for all ice climbers.
We willingly publish the appeal of the Italian Corps for Mountain and Speleological Rescue to help the families of the victims of helicopter crash at Campo Felice, in Abruzzo, Italy. On 24/01/2017 the aircraft crashed during a rescue mission, the five members of its crew and the injured person were all killed.
Last weekend South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park won the fourth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The Speed event was won by the Russians Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.
Alessio Miori reports about the first ascent of Happy Ending, a new ice climb in Val Trementina (Paganella, Italy), first ascended on on 22-23/12/2016 together with the Luca Caldini, Giordano Faletti, Mattia Piffer and Stefano Vulcan.
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great alpinist and intellectual. Chiara Florit remembers Spiro who, on 21 February, would have celebrated his 100th birthday.
Live streaming from Saas Fee in Switzerland of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017. The Speed Finals stream at 19:30 this evening, the Lead Semis and Finals throughout Saturday.