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29.11.2016 by Thomas Huber in Alpinism

Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive

German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster on nearby Ogre II.

23.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro

Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.

22.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New Catalan climbs in Nepal

Catalan mountaineers Oriol Baró, Roger Cararach and Santiago Padrós have climbed two new routes on Nepal’s 6000m peaks: 'Pilar Dudh Khunda' up the SSW arete of Karyolung (6511m) and 'Nepali Sun' which terminates at 6900m on the South Face of Numbur (6959m).

19.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Amore di Vetro, new mixed climb on Pizzo Badile by Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl

On 16/11/2016 Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

17.11.2016 by Maxim Foygel in Alpinism

Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses

From 26 - 28 August 2016 the Russian mountaineers Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy made the first ascent of 'Via RoMa' (ED 1350m 6a A2), a new route on the East Face of Pointe Walker (4208m), Grandes Jorasses (Alps). The new route shares the start of Pilastro Rosso and finishes up the Tronchey Ridge.

16.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Annapurna III and the attempt by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer & Alex Blümel

Video footage of the attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m), carried out last spring by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel.

11.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face

In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.

10.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm

On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.

08.11.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denis Urubko - my alpinism #2

The second video portrait of Denis Urubko, one of the strongest Himalayan mountaineers of the new millennium.

01.11.2016 by Robert Partridge in Alpinism

Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan

New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m) and Peak 5912m.

30.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders / Sersank Himalaya details and photos

The details and photos of the first ascent of Sersank Peak (6100m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out by British alpinists Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders in alpine style over eight days.

28.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denis Urubko - my alpinism

The video portrait of Denis Urubko, one of the strongest Himalayan mountaineers of all times.

27.10.2016 by Enrico Bonino in Alpinism

Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino

Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore and Marco Ghisio.

26.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič

Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

26.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Renan Ozturk: Obsessed or Devoted

The video portrait of American alpinist and artist Renan Ozturk.

25.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya

British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while Martin Moran and Ian Dring made the first ascent of peak Marakula Killa via their ‘Crocodile Rock’ (1300m, ED2, VI+)

25.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu

On 5 October 2016 Russia’s Valery Rozov leapt from a record-breaking altitude of 7700m off Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world.

24.10.2016 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

British first ascents in South Georgia

On the remote island of South Georgia (Southern Atlantic Ocean) Stephen Venables, Skip Novak, Crag Jones, Henry Chaplin, David Lund and Simon Richardson climbed 8 mountains, including the first ascent of the spectacular Starbuck peak and the remote and difficult Mount Baume, one of the highest unclimbed peaks on the island.

22.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Books-press

Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography

German photographer Lorenz Holder has won one of the most prestigious photographic competitions in the world for “action & adventure”, namely the Red Bull Illume 2016. All the winning photos.

21.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview

Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).

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