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Malte Brun in New Zealand, first ski descent of South Face

Italy’s Enrico Mosetti and Britain’s Ben Briggs and Tom Grant have made the first ski descent of the South Face of Mt. Malte Brun, describing the run as 'probably the most technical ski descent in New Zealand.’

03.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Angelika Rainer, Jeff Mercier climb Dolomites dry tooling testpiece

Italian climber Angelika Rainer and French alpinist Jeff Mercier have repeated 'Je Ne Sais Quoi' and 'Line above the Sky' at the crag Tomorrow's World in Dolomites; these dry tooling test pieces was freed in 2016 by Tom Ballard.

02.11.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima

On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.

Curvas Peligrosas, steep skiing in Peru

The trailer for Curvas Peligrosas, the film directed by Yannick Boissenot documenting a month spent in Peru together with Frederic Gentet and Stéphane Roguet where the trio made several steep skiing descents including Artesonraju, Huascaran and Tocllaraju.

31.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Farewell Fred Beckey, American climbing legend

Legendary American climber Fred Beckey has passed away aged 94.

28.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China

An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route and established a new line up the West Face.

26.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini

Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.

21.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux

French alpinists Hélias Millerioux, Frédéric Degoulet and Niçois Benjamin Guigonnet have made an alpine style ascent of a new route up the South Face of Nuptse, Nepal Himalaya

19.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb

On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.

12.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch

24-year-old German alpinist Jost Kobusch claims the first ascent of Nangpai Gosum II, the 7296 meter high mountain located on the border between Nepal and China.

11.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Farewell Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins, an indescribable tragedy for alpinism

27-year-old Hayden Kennedy and his girlfriend Inge Perkins have lost their lives. Kennedy was considered one of the leading climbers of his generation.

10.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Königsspitze ice climb by Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer

Mountaineering in the South Tyrol: on 07/10/2017 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer climbed Schattenspiel, a line they believe is a new route described as 'a fantastic line of ice' up the NE Face of Königsspitze / Gran Zebrù.

06.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger summit Manaslu

On 30 September the German mountaineers Alix von Melle and Luis Stitzinger reached the summit of Manaslu, their seventh 8000er climbing without the use of supplementary oxygen.

05.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat summit success for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and seven other mountaineers

On 02/10/2017 at 12:40 Sherpa Mingma Gyalje reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8126 meters, Karakorum, Pakistan). The Sherpa summited with 7 other mountaineers, including Pakistan’s Muhammad Ali Sadpara.

02.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan

Mountaineering in the Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan: in the Ak-Su region the Slovak mountaineers Martin Grajciar, Ondrej Huserka, Jozef Kristoffy and Vladimir Linek spent seven weeks from July 27th to September 10th 2017 making the first ascent of 'Summer Bouquet', a new climb up the West Face of Pik Aleksander Blok (5239 m).

26.09.2017 by Gediminas Simutis in Alpinism

New mixed climbs in Alaska's Revelation Mountains

Mountaineering in Alaska: in spring 2017 Lithuania’s Gediminas Simutis (28) and Germany's Frieder Wittmann (31) pulled off a series of interesting first ascents above the remote Fish Glacier in the Revelation Mountains. The trip report by Simutis.

13.09.2017 by Markus Pucher in Alpinism

Markus Pucher on Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia: I gave it everything

Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher talks about the first winter solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet (2579 m), carried out in Patagonia on 8 September 2017.

11.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Patagonia: Markus Pucher claims first solo winter ascent of Aguja Guillaumet

On 8 September 2017 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher made the first solo winter ascent of Aguja Guillaumet (Patagonia).

29.08.2017 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn

The trip report by Simon Richardson who from 4 - 6 August together with Michael Rinn made the first ascent of Game of Thrones (ED2, 1250m), the first route up the South-West Face of Monarch Mountain (3572m) in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia in Canada.

22.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Großglockner rescue helicopter crash and miracle escape caught on camera

The dramatic video of a helicopter crashing during a mountain rescue operation on Großglockner, Austria's highest peak. Miraculously everyone escaped practically unharmed. Vittorio Messini, Mountain Guide and member of the Austrian Alpine Rescue, provides insight into the accident.

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