The 2002 interview / portrait of American climber and mountaineer Jim Bridwell, one of the undisputed driving forces of rock climbing in Yosemite and on the world’s most inhospitable mountains, who died on 16 February 2018 at the age of 73. By Vinicio Stefanello.
The expedition led by Alex Txikon currently attempting a winter ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen has entered the final stage. The climbers have ascended to Camp 2.
The women’s expedition comprised of Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil and Ixchel Foord has won the main grant of the First Ascent Expedition Award promoted by the Grit & Rock Award foundation aimed at promoting female first ascents. The expedition will attempt the unclimbed Mugu Peaks in Nepal in October.
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: on 10/12/2017 Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Schorschs Weinfall, a new icefall in the Longiarü Valley - Antersasc in Val Badia, Italy. Baumgartner reports.
American alpinists Nathan Brown, Sam Macke, Jackson Marvell and Brian Mulvihill have established two new ice and mixed climbs at Jackson Hole, Wyoming, USA.
Jim Bridwell has left us. Yesterday, February 16th 2018, one of the absolute legends of rock climbing and mountaineering, died aged 73.
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up to M4/WI5+, 95° and crossed four individual summits. Holeček, who climbed a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 m) in 2017, provides the report.
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: Johannes Egger reports about the first ascent of Solo per un altro Hashtag, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella massif, first ascended on 27/01/2018 with Jörg Niedermayr and Friedl Brancalion.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have carried out the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda, also known as Gora Pobeda and at 3003 meters the highest mountain in Siberia, Arctic Polar Circle.
South Tyrol’s Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner have established ‘New look new hook’, a new mixed climb up Rauhe Gaisl, Pragser Tal, Dolomites. The report by Christoph Hainz.
On 31/01/2018 Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher ascended Direkte Große Trichter, an ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps.
On 19 January 2018 Hansjörg Auer and Tobias Holzknecht made the first ascent of Nordstau, a new mixed climb in the Ötztal, Austria. On 29 January Auer teamed up with Simon Messner to carry out the first winter ascent of the nearby North Face of Innerer Hahlkogel.
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga (WI4) dedicated to Olga Gorozhanina.
Ice climbing in Italy's South Tyrol: in the Bletterbach Gorge Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer climbed Eistänzer, a probable new 110 m high ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M6.
At the Grotta Gampenpass in the South Tyrol Florian Riegler and his brother Martin have established two new mixed climbs. The report by Florian Riegler.
On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.
On the NW Face of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera established Maracaibo, a new rock climb 300 meters high graded 7a/C1.
Ice Climbing World Cup: HanNaRai Song extends her lead, Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh claims Iran's first victory
On Saturday 27 January 2018 HanNaRai Song won Lead category in the Ice Climbing World Cup in Corvara in Val Passiria for the third consecutive time. In the men's competition there was a maiden victory when Mohammadreza Safdarian Korouyeh became the first Iranian ever to clinch a stage victory. The Speed discipline was won by Russia's Anton Nemov and Nadezda Gallyamova.
Elisabeth Revol has been rescued off Nanga Parbat by Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala who climbed ceaselessly throughout the night. A helicopter transported the Frenchwoman to Islamabad and she will now return to France for medical treatment, while the four mountaineers will return to their attempt at climbing K2 in winter.
UPDATE at 22:28: Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko reach Elisabeth Revol! This morning the rescue operation began to try and save Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol on Nanga Parbat. Two helicopters transported Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala from K2 to Nanga Parbat, dropping them off at circa 4900 meters; the rescuers are currently climbing up towards the Frenchwoman and Pole.