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19.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini

Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).

18.01.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer

South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.

17.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós

On 04/01/2017 Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós made what is likely to be the first ascent of La Pissa (WI6, M9?, 105m), the obvious icefall at Termine di Cadore, Dolomites.

16.01.2017 by Maurizio Panseri in Alpinism

Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps

Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.

13.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Russians win it big in Beijing

Last weekend the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Beijing, China; Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead event, wile the Speed event was won by their teammates Radomir Proshchenko and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

13.01.2017 by Luca Godenzi in Alpinism

Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli

Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.

12.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kyle Maynard - an inspiration on the summit of Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua

The video of America’s Kyle Maynard who, despite his congenital amputation, climbed to the summit of Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua.

12.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites

Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).

11.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kyzyl Asker, the short film of Ines Papert and Luka Lindič in Kyrgyzstan

The short film of Luka Lindič e Ines Papert and their first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

11.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec

In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the North Face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian Alps.

10.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc

Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.

10.01.2017 by Luca Vallata in Alpinism

La Bruixa, new ice climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites

Luca Vallata reports about the first ascent of La Bruixa, a new icefall in Val Zemola, Dolomites, climbed on 05/01/2017 together with Santiago Padrós.

09.01.2017 by Thomas Huber in Alpinism

Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.

06.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The Journey, with Guido Unterwurzacher

The Journey, a short film by Johannes Mair about Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger, Max Berger and Christian Hechenberger ice climbing in Canada.

05.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc

Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.

04.01.2017 by Ines Papert in Alpinism

Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo

Winter mountaineering: Ines Papert reports about the first repeat of the ice and mixed climb ‘Nordest Supercombo' (800m, M7, R) up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile, carried out on 30/12/2016 together with Luka Lindič

03.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio

Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the North Face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.

30.12.2016 by Vittorio Messini in Alpinism

Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern

On 23/12/2016 the mountain guides Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller made the first ascent of 'Pinzga Stier' (WI5, 1200m), a new ice climb up Hochbirghöhe in Austria.

24.12.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski Titanic video

The video of Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski making the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).

23.12.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Pizzo Badile Nordest supercombo, new mixed combination by David Hefti and Marcel Schenk

On 16/12/2016 the two Swiss mountain guides David Hefti and Marcel Schenk climbed the ice and mixed combination 'Nordest supercombo' (800m, M7, R) a demanding line that joins Via Cassin with via Memento Mori up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

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