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13.04.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb

Mountaineering on the Matterhorn: from 15 - 16 March Alexander Huber from Germany and Switzerland’s Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf climbed a new route up the legendary North Face of one of the symbols of the Alps. The new climb is called Schweizernase and shares the start of the Gogna-Cerruti route before continuing directly up through the enormous overhangs on the upper section of the face.

11.04.2017 by Planetmountain in Events

Arco Rock Star and Adventure Awards Days, the Italian adventure and exploration festival

From 21- 23 April Arco, Italy will host the Adventure Awards Days, the International Festival of adventure and exploration. Guests include Manolo, Emilio Previtali, Francesco Sauro, Stefano Gregoretti, Michele Evangelisti and Robbie Shone. The two-day festival will also host the second edition of Arco Rock Star, the international contest of climbing photography in the heart of Garda Trentino region.

07.04.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Interviews

Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering

Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck on the eve of departure for Nepal where he will attempt to complete one of the most amitious projects in Himalayan mountaineering: the coveted first Everest - Lhotse traverse.

06.04.2017 by Nicholas Hobley in Alpinism

Peter Habeler, 74, climbs Eiger North Face again with David Lama

Timeless mountaineering: aged 74 Peter Habeler, one of the world’s greatest mountaineers who in 1978 made the first ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen together with Reinhold Messner, has now climbed the North Face of the Eiger once again. In 1974 Habeler had climbed the mountain in record time with Messner, while now he repeated the route with another world famous alpinist, young David Lama.

04.04.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Petit Dru, Les Droites & Grandes Jorasses, class mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif

Good conditions in the Mont Blanc massif have enabled the French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne climbers to make three interesting repeats on Rhem-Vimal up Les Droites, Rolling Stones on Grandes Jorasses and Voie des guides on Petit Dru.

03.04.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Great mountaineering on Thalay Sagar: the Russian direttissima video

The video of the first ascent of 'Moveable Feast', the huge new route up the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalaya first climbed from 9 - 17 September 2016 by the Russian alpinists Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov.

29.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes

Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).

24.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer traverse Ötztal Alps Kaunergrat in winter

From 14 - 17 March 2017 Hansjörg Auer and his brother Matthias traversed the main part of the Kaunergrat in Austria’s Ötztal Alps.

24.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Angelika Rainer powers through French Connection in the Dolomites

In February 2017 Angelika Rainer from the South Tyrol repeated French Connection at the crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D15-, it is considered one of the hardest total dry routes in the world.

11.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cerro Torre Ragni route: Daniel Joll & Kim Ladiges make first 2017 ascent

The video the documents the first ascent in the 2016/2017 season on the Ragni route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by New Zealand’s Daniel Joll and Kim Ladiges.

08.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alex Txikon ends Everest winter expedition

Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon has abandoned his attempt at climbing Everest in winter after retreating from Camp 2 (6400m) due to high winds.

07.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt

The Everest winter expedition led by Alex Txikon is now in its final phase: after having reorganised the expedition and waited for several weeks, the Basque mountaineer along with several Sherpa has now reached Camp 2 and is about to begin his final bid for the summit.

04.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grandes Jorasses: No Siesta e Bonatti - Vaucher climbed by Luka Lindič and Ines Papert

Winter mountaineering: Luka Lindič and Ines Papert ascended the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (4208m) in the Mont Blanc massif, France, combining the routes 'No Siesta' and 'Bonatti - Vaucher' from 20 - 22 February 2017 and with two bivies.

03.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017

American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington and Wojciech Kurtyka. Claude Gardien, the historic Editor-in Chief of Vertical magazine, provides the portrait.

01.03.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Climbing in Patagonia: Pou brothers add Aguja Guillaumet ascent

Spanish mountaineers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou have established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. Called 'Aupa 40', the 525m outing breaches difficulties up to 5+, M7 85˚.

28.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Old Boy, difficult new mixed climb at Cogne by Mauro Mabboni and Patrick Gasperini

On 16 and 17 February 2017 Mauro Mabboni and Patrick Gasperini made the first ascent of Old Boy, a difficult new mixed climb above Lillaz close to Cogne in Valle d’Aosta, Italy.

23.02.2017 by Riccardo Quaranta in Alpinism

Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains

Winter mountaineering in Molise, Italy: Riccardo Quaranta reports about Infinite Dreams (120m, AI4-, TD), the new mixed climb he established Monte Miletto in the Matese massif, established on 15/02/2017 with Agnese Flavi.

22.02.2017 by Francesco Rigon in Alpinism

Dolomites Val d’Ansiei: the new icefall Night Love

Francesco Rigon reports about his ascent of 'Night Love' (WI5, 35m), a probable new ice climb in Val d'Ansiei (Cadore, Italy).

20.02.2017 by Elio Bonfanti in Alpinism

For Adriano Trombetta

In memory of Adriano Trombetta, who died Friday, Feb. 17, 2017 along with Margherita Beria D’Argentina and Antonio Lovato in an avalanche on Monte Chaberton (Val di Susa, Cottian Alps). By Elio Bonfanti.

19.02.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greg Boswell winter climbing video profile

The video profile of Greg Boswell, one of the UK’s strongest Scottish winter climbers.

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