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15.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon

Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.

14.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Chris Sharma catches his Big Fish, spectacular and difficult new Deep Water Solo at Mallorca

At Mallorca in Spain American rock climber Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Big Fish, an extremely high Deep Water Solo (DWS) climb rated 8c+/9a.

13.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Anak Verhoeven claims 9a+ first female ascent at Pierrot Beach in France

Belgium's Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Sweet Neuf' at Pierrot Beach in France, a sports climb she believes is 9a+. Should the grade be confirmed, Verhoeven becomes only the second woman to have climbed 9a+ and the first to have freed a route of this difficulty.

12.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy

On 28 July 2017 Jacopo Larcher and Paolo Marazzi made the first free ascent of Così parlò Zarathustra, a A3 aid climb in Vallone di Sea established in 1983 by Isidoro Meneghin and Daniele Caneparo.

10.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Spaniards claim two new climbs and one first free ascent in Peru

The brothers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou, together with Manu Ponce and Pedro Galán, have made the first ascent of two new rock climbs in Peru: Yaku Mama (7a+ / 185 m) next to the Gocta Falls in Amazonia, and Zerain 8a / 860 m in the valley of Quebrada Rurec in Cordillera Blanca. In the same valley the four also made the first free of Qui Io Vado Ancora, the route put up in 2006 by the Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers.

09.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska

From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).

08.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra calls hardest climb in the world Silence

The first 9c sports climb in the world freed by Adam Ondra last Sunday at Flatanger in Norway has lost its 'Project Hard' status and now has official name: Silence. Ondra explains why and, indirectly, provides insight about his own climbing.

07.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco

Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni who on 02/09/2017 in Val Noasca (Valle dell’Orco, Italy) pulled off the first repeat of 29 dots, the difficult highball boulder problem freed in 2015 by Austria’s Bernd Zangerl.

07.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Devils Tower El Matador climbed by Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein

Video: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein repeat El Matador (5.11a), one of the classic climbs up Devils Tower in Wyoming, USA.

07.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Russia dominates Speed climbing at IFSC Youth World Championships Innsbruck

Russian athletes excelled on Sunday and Monday in the Speed climbing discipline at the IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 in Innsbruck, adding 11 more medals to the count.

06.09.2017 by Pavel Kratochvíl in Alpinism

L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent

The report by 16-year-old Slovak climber Pavel Kratochvíl who on 27/08/2017 with Róbert Luby (21) and Martin Krasňanský (34) made the first free ascent of L'or du temps, the new route put up on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, by Nina Caprez and Arnaud Petit.

04.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Adam Ondra climbs world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway

Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 3 September 2017 at Flatanger in Norway made the first free ascent of his Project Hard, a sport climb which the 24-year-old has graded 9c. Should this be confirmed, then the 45m line checks in as the first 9c in the world. The new climb is now called Silence.

03.09.2017 by Lisi Steurer in Alpinism

Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites

The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.

02.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi new Youth A Boulder World Champions

Yesterday at Innsbruck, Austria Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi won their Youth A category during the Youth Boulder World Championship.

01.09.2017 by Andrea Migliano in Climbing

Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting

One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.

31.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber

In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.

30.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Environment

Solar eclipse at Smith Rock, the story behind the viral photo

The 'behind the scenes' video documenting how the viral photo was taken of the solar eclipse by Ted Hesser on August 21, 2017 at Smith Rock, Oregon, USA.

29.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Video: Chris Sharma climbing his Deep Water Solo at Pont d'Arc

The video of American climber Chris Sharma making the first ascent of his difficult deep water solo at Pont d’Arc in Ardèche, France..

28.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Adam Ondra and Julia Chanourdie win Arco Rock Master 2017

The 31st Arco Rock Master Trophy was won using the Duel formula on 26 August 2017 by Adam Ondra and Julia Chanourdie. A few hours earlier the fourth stage of the Lead World Cup was won by Jakob Schubert and Jain Kim, while the Speed World ​​Cup was won by Vladislav Deulin and Anouck Jaubert.

27.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Events

Arco Rock Legends: Mike Kosterlitz, Margo Hayes and Janja Garnbret win in 2017

On Friday 25/08/2017 the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends took place in Arco, Italy. Scottish climber and Nobel Prize in Physics laureate Mike Kosterlitz received the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil award. America's Margo Hayes won the Wild Country Rock Award, while Slovenia's Janja Garnbret won the La Sportiva Competition Award.The other nominees were Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi, Domen Škofic and Shauna Coxsey.




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