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17.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın

Zorbey Aktuyun reports about the first repeat of Nessuno (8a+, 470 m) carried out with Muammer Yalcın in the Aladaglar massif in Turkey.

16.09.2017 by Vlad Capusan in Alpinism

Bugaboos Spire, big new rock climb up Canadian North Face

Vlad Capusan reports about Tutti Frutti Summer Love (5.11+, A3, 17 pitches, 610m), the big new route climbed up the North Face of Bugaboos Spire in British Columbia, Canada together with Tom Schindfessel from 8 - 11 August 2017.

15.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon

Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.

14.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Chris Sharma catches his Big Fish, spectacular and difficult new Deep Water Solo at Mallorca

At Mallorca in Spain American rock climber Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Big Fish, an extremely high Deep Water Solo (DWS) climb rated 8c+/9a.

13.09.2017 by Markus Pucher in Alpinism

Markus Pucher on Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia: I gave it everything

Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher talks about the first winter solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet (2579 m), carried out in Patagonia on 8 September 2017.

13.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Anak Verhoeven claims 9a+ first female ascent at Pierrot Beach in France

Belgium's Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Sweet Neuf' at Pierrot Beach in France, a sports climb she believes is 9a+. Should the grade be confirmed, Verhoeven becomes only the second woman to have climbed 9a+ and the first to have freed a route of this difficulty.

12.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy

On 28 July 2017 Jacopo Larcher and Paolo Marazzi made the first free ascent of Così parlò Zarathustra, a A3 aid climb in Vallone di Sea established in 1983 by Isidoro Meneghin and Daniele Caneparo.

11.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Patagonia: Markus Pucher claims first solo winter ascent of Aguja Guillaumet

On 8 September 2017 Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher made the first solo winter ascent of Aguja Guillaumet (Patagonia).

10.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Spaniards claim two new climbs and one first free ascent in Peru

The brothers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou, together with Manu Ponce and Pedro Galán, have made the first ascent of two new rock climbs in Peru: Yaku Mama (7a+ / 185 m) next to the Gocta Falls in Amazonia, and Zerain 8a / 860 m in the valley of Quebrada Rurec in Cordillera Blanca. In the same valley the four also made the first free of Qui Io Vado Ancora, the route put up in 2006 by the Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers.

09.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska

From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).

08.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra calls hardest climb in the world Silence

The first 9c sports climb in the world freed by Adam Ondra last Sunday at Flatanger in Norway has lost its 'Project Hard' status and now has official name: Silence. Ondra explains why and, indirectly, provides insight about his own climbing.

07.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco

Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni who on 02/09/2017 in Val Noasca (Valle dell’Orco, Italy) pulled off the first repeat of 29 dots, the difficult highball boulder problem freed in 2015 by Austria’s Bernd Zangerl.

07.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Devils Tower El Matador climbed by Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein

Video: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein repeat El Matador (5.11a), one of the classic climbs up Devils Tower in Wyoming, USA.

07.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Russia dominates Speed climbing at IFSC Youth World Championships Innsbruck

Russian athletes excelled on Sunday and Monday in the Speed climbing discipline at the IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 in Innsbruck, adding 11 more medals to the count.

06.09.2017 by Pavel Kratochvíl in Alpinism

L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent

The report by 16-year-old Slovak climber Pavel Kratochvíl who on 27/08/2017 with Róbert Luby (21) and Martin Krasňanský (34) made the first free ascent of L'or du temps, the new route put up on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, by Nina Caprez and Arnaud Petit.

04.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Adam Ondra climbs world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway

Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 3 September 2017 at Flatanger in Norway made the first free ascent of his Project Hard, a sport climb which the 24-year-old has graded 9c. Should this be confirmed, then the 45m line checks in as the first 9c in the world. The new climb is now called Silence.

03.09.2017 by Lisi Steurer in Alpinism

Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites

The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.

02.09.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi new Youth A Boulder World Champions

Yesterday at Innsbruck, Austria Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi won their Youth A category during the Youth Boulder World Championship.

01.09.2017 by Andrea Migliano in Climbing

Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting

One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.

31.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber

In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.




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