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31.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Farewell Fred Beckey, American climbing legend

Legendary American climber Fred Beckey has passed away aged 94.

Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti

On 27 October the Italian mountaineer Enrico Mosetti and the Britons Ben Briggs and Tom Grant made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face, the difficult and dangerous SE Face of Mount Aoraki / Mount Cook (3724m) in New Zealand. The achievement has already been described by the local media as "historic".

28.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China

An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route and established a new line up the West Face.

27.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Interviews

The Nose Speed, new record set by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds on El Capitan

Interview with American climber Jim Reynolds who on 21 October 2017 teamed up with Brad Gobright to speed climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 2:19:44. In doing so they beat the previous speed record set in 2012 by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by almost four minutes.

26.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini

Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.

26.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Climbing Video: The World's Best Belayer

Some of the best climbers in the world explain the importance of a good belayer.

25.10.2017 by Luca Montanari in Alpinism

From Italy with love, new Italian trad climb in Canada's Bugaboos

From 15 - 16 August 2017 the XMountain Mountain Guide Luca Montanari and Arianna Del Sordo made the first ascent of 'From Italy with love', a trad climb up the Crescent Towers in the heart of the Bugaboo Spires, Canada.

24.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Angela Eiter / First woman to climb 9b interview

Interview with Austrian climber Angela Eiter after becoming the first female to climb 9b: La planta de shiva at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain.

24.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Andrea Zanone climbs Coup de Grace, 9a in Switzerland's Val Bavona

Italian climber Andrea Zanone has redpointed his first 9a sports climb Coup de Grace in the Canton of Ticino in Switzerland, first ascended in 2005 by America’s Dave Graham.

23.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b with La planta de shiva in Spain

Austrian climber Angela Eiter has become the first woman in the world to climb 9b with her repeat of La planta de shiva, the sports climbed freed in 2011 by Adam Ondra nel 2011 at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain.

23.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

El Capitan rockfall continues / New video from Yosemite

New rockfall has taken place on the SE Face of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley (USA). The video filmed by Maurizio Oviglia from Middle Cathedral Rock.

22.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Anna Stöhr & Juliane Wurm bouldering in Japan

Austria’s Anna Stöhr and Germany’s Juliane Wurm discover some of the bouldering potential in Japan, featuring Yuji Hirayama, Akiyo Noguchi, Yuka Kobayashi, Sachi Amma and many others.

21.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux

French alpinists Hélias Millerioux, Frédéric Degoulet and Niçois Benjamin Guigonnet have made an alpine style ascent of a new route up the South Face of Nuptse, Nepal Himalaya

20.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Sasha DiGiulian / The state of the art of women's climbing

Top American climber Sasha DiGiulian talks to planetmountain.com about the current state of female sport climbing, starting from the latest great ascents carried out Margo Hayes and Anak Verhoeven.

19.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb

On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.

19.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Via Mirko, new rock climb above Val Gardena in the Dolomites

The Italian Mountain Guides Armin Senoner and Manuel Nocker have made the first ascent of Via Mirko, a new rock climb up Monte Steviola above Vallunga (Puez-Odle group), Dolomites.

18.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Quinn Brett, Recovery Fund for climber injured in fall on El Capitan

On 11 October 2017 strong American climber Quinn Brett fell and seriously injured herself while climbing The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley (USA). Friends have launched a fundraising campaign.

18.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bugaboos climbing: Leo Houlding and Will Stanhope enchain Howser Towers in a day

Leo Houlding and Will Stanhope climb the three Howser Towers at the Bugaboos in Canada in 23 hours and 30 minutes. The link-up consisted of 2,000m of climbing up to 5.12+ (7b/7b+). This is the first time the three towers have been enchained in a day.

17.10.2017 by Matteo Pavana in Climbing

Alfredo Webber climbs 9a aged 48, Thunder Ribes at Massone

A few days ago 48-year-old Alfredo Webber climbed his first 9a, Thunder Ribes at Massone, Arco, Italy. Matteo Pavana provides the report.

16.10.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Janja Garnbret wins Lead World Cup 2017, Anak Verhoeven and Keiichiro Korenaga win in Xiamen

The penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 was won yesterday at Xiamen in China by Anak Verhoeven from Belgium and Keiichiro Korenaga from Japan. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret placed third and secured overall victory in the Lead World Cup. The Speed World Cup 2017 was won by Anouck Jaubert from France and and Vladislav Deulin from Russia.




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