Home page Planetmountain.com
Training for a new alpinism with Steve House. On 19 August 2017 House and Scott Johnston will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix
Photo by Marko Prezelj
'The theoretical basis is the most important thing for understanding training and making decisions about training.' Steve House
Photo by Uphill Athlete
'I want to move climbing away from ‘conquest’ and to what I see is the real value, the process of continual improvement, more knowledge, more understanding of our sport but especially of ourselves.' Steve House
Photo by Uphill Athlete
Mountain Performance Workshop, ideal for all mountain athletes with and without prior training experience.
Photo by Uphill Athlete

Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August

di

Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.

In mid-August famous American alpinist Steve House will hold a mountain training workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix with Scott Johnston, co-author of the acclaimed manual ‘Training for the new alpinism: a manual for the climber as athlete’. Johnston was coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers as well as House's personal trainer and in this seminar Johnston explains how to apply training practices from other endurance sports. We asked House five simple questions about the importance of this "training for the New Alpinism".



Who is this course aimed at and why should they attend it?
The course is for anyone interested in learning how to coach themselves (or others) in mountain sports including climbing, alpinism, high-altitude climbing, ski mountaineering, mountain running, and skimo racing.

Can you provide any examples that underline the success of a course like this?
Many people have used both the book and the course to prepare for big objectives. Mikhail Fomin and Nikita Balabanov for their ascent of the NNW Pillar of Mt. Talung and Stuss Leeds for his ascent of Makalu, to name just two.

This is a theoretical course in a classroom, not in the mountains. What convinced you that this theoretical basis was necessary?
The theoretical basis is the most important thing for understanding training and making decisions about training. This is because of two things: 1) Coaches and exercise scientists understand very well what works. Athletes without this understanding can not make correct decisions about training - how to increase their ability in their sport. I don’t need to show a person how to run uphill for an hour. But I do need to explain to that person why I choose that workout for today, what intensity I do that workout, and how I determine the ideal length of that workout. Those decisions require a understanding of the theory.

You have been mentoring young alpinists and teaching climbing for a number of years. What has this role has given you?
It gives me great satisfaction on a number of levels. First, as a top-climber, I was always very frustrated by people who would say "that’s so amazing!" When I did a climb. Frankly, it’s not amazing, it was a lot of hard work and I prepared very well and very long until I was ready to do something "amazing". This is my way of explaining to the world of mountain sport that everyone can do ‘amazing’, but it takes time, dedication, and either a coach or the knowledge of how to coach yourself, as this course gives.

So what does "new alpinism" represent to you?
In mountain sport there is no end to your progress or your process. We humans are dynamic, and the mountain sports we address in terms of training and preparation are the most powerful forces of change I’ve known in my life. The new alpinism for me represents the embracing of process over achievement. I want to move climbing away from ‘conquest’ and to what I see is the real value, the process of continual improvement, more knowledge, more understanding of our sport but especially of ourselves. I want people to go simply, train smart, and do their sport well; that is the path to self development, self knowledge, and a full life.

To find out more abou the course check out www.uphillathlete.com

Share

NEWS / Related news:
Steve House, looking back on the Denali Slovak Direct
19.07.2017
Steve House, looking back on the Denali Slovak Direct
17 years after his ground-breaking ascent, American alpinist Steve House looks back on the extremely fast repeat of the Slovak Direct up the South Face of Denali (Alaska), climbed with Mark Twight and Scott Backes in 60 hours non-stop.
Steve House / knowing yourself
11.08.2016
Steve House / knowing yourself
American alpinist Steve House shares his thoughts about how failing wisely provides interior growth. Originally posted only on facebook, House has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
08.05.2017
A tribute to our friend, Ueli Steck. By Steve House
In memory of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who died while climbing on Nuptse in Nepal on April 30, 2017, written by his friend and ace American alpinist Steve House.
Alpine Mentors with Steve House
04.01.2012
Alpine Mentors with Steve House
American alpinist Steve House has started the mentoring program "Alpine Mentors". Aspiring young climbers and alpinists can send applications to 01/04/2012
13.02.2006
XV Piolet d'or to Steve House and Vincent Anderson
On 10/02 in Grenoble the golden ice axe, the mountaineering oscar 2005, was awarded to Steve House and Vincent Anderson for their new route up the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat.
House and Anderson climb new route on Mt. Alberta, Canada
02.04.2008
House and Anderson climb new route on Mt. Alberta, Canada
The Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House have opened a new route up the north face of Mt. Alberta (3619m), Rockies, Canada. The due climbed alpine style for three days and graded their new line WI5+ M8 R/X.
House and Anderson forge new line up Rupal Face
14.09.2005
House and Anderson forge new line up Rupal Face
Steve House and Vince Anderson have ascended a new route up the famous and immense Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Steve House: interview after Piolet d'Or 2004 People's Choice Award
01.03.2005
Steve House: interview after Piolet d'Or 2004 People's Choice Award
Interview with the American mountaineer who received the nomination for the Piolet d'Or 2004 for his solo ascent of K7. This climb recieved the People's Choice Award as the most important ascent of the year.
28.02.2005
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
The prestigious Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagne Magazine was won by the Russian team for its ascent of Jannu. Steve House won the spectators award for his solitary ascent of K7.
11.06.2004
North Twin ascent
In April Steve House and Marko Prezelj made the coveted third ascent of the 5000 foot North face of North Twin, Canadian Rockies, via a new line.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria