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"Of rock and Water", Cascata del Ferro, 1 May 2013
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Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides


During Melloblocco 2013 the Lombardy Mountain Guides offers four free "MelloClinics" dedicated to single and multi-pitch rock climbing in Val di Mello to raise awareness about what the valley has to offer apart from its endless bouldering opportunities. In addition the guides will organise walks into the most fascinating, hidden corners of this magical Italian valley.

The other day we wrote about this truly special edition of Melloblocco (which is now about to begin). We'd now like to remind you that it's "special" not only because it celebrates its first 10 years of existence. Nor only because, to celebrate this coming of age, this year's event will last 10 days: from April 26 to May 5 (mark these dates in your diaries and check out all the public holidays). It is special also - and perhaps more importantly - because this Mello #10 celebrates small fragments of everything that it stands for and represents right from the very beginning. And this is certainly no coincidence.

In short, while the Melloblockers meet up in Val di Mello to freely enjoy their climbing festival, they'll also be able to experience a little bit of the past and what made all of this a reality. We've already mentioned the book which retraces the entire Melloblocco with photos, memories and snapshots of these last 10 years. And we've already talked about the film by Andrea Frigerio, Patabang, which analyses how the evolution of climbing in the valley. What we haven't mentioned though is another important element which in recent years has characterised Melloblocco, namely the event's progressive identification with the Valley and its "total climbing" that combines bouldering (or "sassismo" as it is defined in Italian, developed, as it happens, right here) with free climbing on its indescribable granite rock faces. The importance of combining these two games - so different at first glance but in truth complementary here in the valley - has grown increasingly during these Melloblocco years. Not only bouldering therefore for those who join Melloblocco. But also "multi-pitch rock climbs".

All of this comes as no surprise: in this little climbing paradise of climbers it's quite simply impossible not to "stick" to the thousands of boulders, just as it's absolutely impossible not to dream about climbing the splendid faces. Perhaps this is exactly what the Lombardy Mountain Guides had in mind when, as of 2004, they organised the first three Melloblocco editions. The very same group that now "rejoins" the event not only to manage the prize problems (and in doing so they have introduces the novelty of video self-certification for the two competition days) but also to raise awareness about the "Valley", to bring to the forefront everything that goes beyond bouldering, high up in the valley.

This is an opportunity we believe is unmissable - and not only because it's free for all registered Melloblockers. There are 4 days in total, the so-called "MelloClinics," during which the Mountain Guides accompany Melloblockers (free of charge) to discover the secrets and beauty of this exceptional granite valley. Things kick off on Saturday, 27 April with the course "Friction-Grip" on the famous Trapezio d’Argento slab which hosts historic routes such as "Stomaco Peloso" e "Nuova Dimensione". On Wednesday, 1 May the program continues with "Of rocks and water" up the smooth, photogenic slabs close to the waterfall Cascata del Ferro. "Speed Lama" is on the agenda on Friday 3 May at Sasso Remenno, a jovial competition to race up some of the most famous layback cracks in the valley. Sasso Remenno also hosts "Crack Climbing" on Saturday 4 May; as the name implies, this analyses the art of crack climbing and the day's challenge will be up the boulder/route "Fessura Impossibile". But there is more to come, since the Hiking Guides have organises daily walks - the "MelloTreks" into the most beautiful, remote corners of the valley. Saturday 27 April begins with the scenic route to the other side of the valley, the one facing the great granite wall; on Wednesday 1 May it's time for the bold Melat paths in Val Qualido that lead to the oval stable, a true architectural masterpiece created by the Melat shepherds; on Saturday, 4 May water is the key element as the guides set off to discover the most beautiful aquatic corners in the Val di Mello Nature reserve. "MelloClinics" and "MelloTrek"... they're all part of this total outdoor experience (not just bouldering) to disvoer a Melloblocco, in harmony with its history, nature and its rhythms.



Gli eventi si svolgeranno al Melloblocco Village, presso il Centro Polifunzionale della Montagna. Il Punto di ritrovo per le attività con le Guide Alpine è l’Info Point Melloblocco all’ingresso di S. Martino.

Friday 26 April – Melloblocco® - Start!
Ore 17.00 Apertura iscrizioni Melloblocco 2013
Ore 20-21 Apertura ufficiale del Melloblocco 2013
Ore 21-22 Presentazione del libro del decennale “Melloblocco10”
“Arrampicata ed Arte” con presentazione esposizioni personali allestite al Melloblocco Village
Ore 22-23 Concerto Kreole Gang – New Orleans Street Band
Ore 23:00 Dj Set

Saturday 27 April – Melloblocco® - Entra nel vivo
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi
Ore 10-17 Guide Alpine Lombardia; MelloClinics: “Friction-Aderenza” Val di Mello, Trapezio d’Argento
MelloTrek: Val di Mello- Val Mezzola “Panorama”
Ore 21-22 Spettacolo teatrale “Ghiaia” a cura di Marzio Nardi
Ore 22:00 Dj Set – dj IVO + dj PHILL

Sunday 28 Aprie – Melloblocco® - Musica!
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi
Ore 21-22 Concerto The Gang Band
Ore 22:00 Dj Set

Monday 29 April – Melloblocco® - I melloblocchisti protagonisti
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi – autocertificazione
Ore 21-22 Presentazione del libro "La mia Val Masino"
Ore 22-23 Proiezione del film “Chloé Graftiaux – Passion together”

Tuesday 30 April – Melloblocco® - Val Masino protagonista
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi (autocertificazione al mattino)
Ore 21-22 Presentazione film “Patabang” con Andrea Frigerio
Presentazione libro “MelloMito” con Jacopo Merizzi
Ore 22-24 Concerto Rollover Band Rock anni 50-60

Wednesday 1 May – Melloblocco® - La festa dei lavoratori
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi
Ore 10-17 Guide Alpine Lombardia: MelloClinics: Val di Mello, Cascate del Ferro “Of rock and water”
MelloTrek: Val di Mello, Val Qualido – “Following Melat” – Garmin GPS Academy
Ore 21-22 Presentazione film di Giovanni Quirici
Ore 22-24 DJ Shashamane HI-FI

Thursday 2 May – Melloblocco® - Sponsor Village
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi – autocertificazione
Ore 17 Apertura Sponsor Village
Ore 21-22 Philippe Ribiere presenta il suo film “WILD ONE”
Ore 22-24 Concerto Vulgar Pressure
Ore 24 DJ Philippe Ribiere

Friday 3 May – Melloblocco® - Tutti sui blocchi!
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi – autocertificazione *
Ore 10-14 “MelloBaby” ritrovo presso Melloblocco Village
Ore 14-18 “Arrampicabile” ritrovo presso Melloblocco Village
Ore 15-19 Guide Alpine Lombardia: MelloClinics Sasso Remenno “Speed Lama”
Ore 21-22 Sponsor time
La Sportiva: Pietro Dal Prà presenta i nuovi colori delle scarpette Katana
Versione video del nuovo boulder film di Chuck Fryberger “The Network”
Multi-proiezioni di arrampicata del team Trangoworld
Ore 22-23 Concerto Lactis Fever
Ore 23 Dj PHILL

Saturday 4 May – Melloblocco® - La Sportiva Party
Ore 10-18 Arrampicata sui blocchi
Ore 10-17 Guide Alpine Lombardia: MelloClinics: Sasso Remenno “Crack Climbing”
MelloTrek: Val di Mello “Waterfall in the valley” - Garmin GPS Academy
Ore 21-22 Sponsor time
La Sportiva: Gabriele. Moroni e Silvio Reffo presentano il loro film “No Siesta”
Multi-proiezioni di arrampicata del team Trangoworld
Ore 22-24 La Sportiva Party / Concerto Circo Abusivo
Ore 24 Dj IVO

Sunday 5 May – Melloblocco® - La conclusione
Ore 10-15 Arrampicata sui blocchi
Ore 15-17 Premiazioni e chiusura Melloblocco 2013

05/05/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day ten, goodbye to the Valley
04/05/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day nine, beauty
04/05/2013 - Melloblocco, 2013, day eight: climbing without limits
03/05/3013 - Melloblocco 2013, day seven: sun and a warm welcome
02/05/2013 - Become a bone marrow donor at Melloblocco
01/05/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day six, 1st of May, sun, clouds and climbing
30/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013, today the special evening dedicated to Valle di Mello
29/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: day four, a bit of everything
28/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013 – day three: bouldering calm
28/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013, Anna Borella shares her personal perspective

27/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013: sparks of imagination during day 1
27/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013 - day one: Chinese lanterns fill the sky
24/04/2013 - Melloblocco, 10 years of history, climbing and culture in Val di Mello – Val Masino

23/04/2013 - Melloblocco Backstage, an exhibition documenting the birth of the boulder problems

22/04/2013 - Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides
12/04/2013 - Melloblocco Special 2013: 10 years for 10 free climbing days in Val di Mello





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