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Mickael Mawem competing in the World Games 2017 at Wroclaw
Photo by Eddie Fowke / Szymon Aksienionek / IFSC
Miho Nonaka, Akiyo Noguchi, Fanny Gibert, Margo Hayes & Monika Retschy in isolation at the World Games 2017 at Wroclaw
Photo by Eddie Fowke / Szymon Aksienionek / IFSC
Reza Alipourshenazandifar wins the Speed gold at the World Games 2017 at Wroclaw
Photo by Eddie Fowke / Szymon Aksienionek / IFSC
Julia Chanourdie competing in the World Games 2017 at Wroclaw in Poland
Photo by Eddie Fowke / IFSC

The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017

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From 20 - 30 July 2017 Wrocław (Breslavia) in Poland hosted the 10th World Games. More than 35,800 athletes competed in the 2017 edition dedicated to 36 different sports, including sport climbing with its three disciples Lead, Speed and Boulder.

Japan’s Keiichiro Korenaga won the Lead event, climbing to the same hold as Yuki Hada but beating his teammate due to countback to the Semifinals. Canada’s Sean McColl placed third, ahead of Romain Desgranges, Domen Skofic and a superlative Francesco Vettorata; all three fell off the 22nd hold and were split by their Semifinal results. Home favourite Maciej Dobrzanski and Australia’s Campbell Harrison completed the lineup finishing 5th and 6th. In the women’s final the route setters failed to separate the three leading lights, i.e. Belgium’s Anak Verhoeven, Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and France’s Julia Charnoudie and so countback to the Semis was used once again. They were followed by Jain Kim (4th), Jessica Pilz (5th), Akiyo Noguchi (6th), Mina Markovic (7th) and Claire Buhrfeind (8th).

Serbia’s Stasa Gejo stole the show in the Boulder event as the 19-year-old was the only athlete to send all 4 problems in the final. Miho Nonaka from Japan settled for silver thanks to her three tops, while France’s Fanny Gibert secured bronze, ahead of Akiyo Noguchi, Monika Retschy and Margo Hayes, 4th, 5th and 6th respectively. In the men’s event only 19-year-old Yoshiyuki Ogata from Japan sent all 4 problems, while Germany’s Jan Hojer managed to top 3 to secure silver, ahead of Russia’s Aleksei Rubtsov.

In the Speed event Russia’s Iuliia Kaplina not only won gold but also set a new female world record, beating France’s Anouck Jaubert in the final with a new time of 7.32 seconds. In the small final for third and fourth place Anna Tsyganova beat her teammate Mariia Krasavina. In the men’s final Reza Alipourshenazandifar won the first gold medal for his country, Iran, by beating Ukraine’s Danyil Boldyrev who fell during the final sprint. Stanislav Kokorin beat Marcin Dzienski in the small final to win the bronze medal.

tracciatura durante i World Games di Wroclaw
In the photo: route setting during the World Games at Wroclaw

LEAD MALE
1 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 32+
2 Yuki Hada JPN 32+
3 Sean Mccoll CAN 29+

4 Romain Desgranges FRA 22+
5 Domen Skofic SLO 22+
6 Francesco Vettorata ITA 22+
7 Maciej Dobrzanski POL 22
8 Campbell Harrison AUS 19
9 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP
9 Oliver Marx RSA

LEAD FEMALE
1 Anak Verhoeven BEL 39+
2 Janja Garnbret SLO 39+
3 Julia Chanourdie FRA 39+

4 Jain Kim KOR 39
5 Jessica Pilz AUT 39
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 38
7 Mina Markovic SLO 33+
8 Claire Buhrfeind USA 29+
9 Margo Hayes USA
10 Karina Miroslaw POL
10 Lucinda Ann Stirling AUS

BOULDER MALE
1 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 4t9
2 Jan Hojer GER 3t6
3 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2t3

4 Mickael Mawem FRA 2t4
5 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1t4
6 Manuel Cornu FRA 1t5
7 Kokoro Fujii JPN
8 Campbell Harrison AUS
9 Borna Cujic CRO
9 Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor POL
11 Sean Mccoll CAN
12 Adam Ludford RSA

BOULDER FEMALE
1 Stasa Gejo SRB 4t10
2 Miho Nonaka JPN 3t10
3 Fanny Gibert FRA 2t2
4 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3
5 Monika Retschy GER 1t6
6 Margo Hayes USA 0t
7 Katharina Saurwein AUT
8 Aya Onoe JPN
9 Alma Bestvater GER
10 Katarzyna Ekwinska POL
11 Lucinda Ann Stirling AUS

SPEED MALE
1 Reza Alipourshenazandifar IRI 5.58
2 Danyil Boldyrev UKR false start
3 Stanislav Kokorin RUS 5.81
4 Marcin Dzienski POL 5.99
5 John Brosler USA
6 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
7 Bassa Mawem FRA
8 Libor Hroza CZE
9 Leonardo Gontero ITA
10 Ashari Fajri INA
11 Rafal Halasa POL
12 Ludovico Fossali ITA

SPEED FEMALE
1 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 7.32
2 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.42
3 Anna Tsyganova RUS 7.79

4 Mariia Krasavina RUS 9.08
5 Aleksandra Rudzinska POL
6 Daria Kan RUS
7 Anna Brozek POL
8 Patrycja Chudziak POL
9 CuiLian He CHN
10 Andrea Rojas ECU
11 Elma Fleuret FRA
12 Klaudia Buczek POL

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NEWS / Related news:
25.07.2005
Usobiaga & Eiter win World Games
Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter win the World Games 2005 held in Duisburg, Germany on 22-23 July

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