Home page Planetmountain.com
Romain Desgranges after winning the European Lead Championship at Campitello di Fassa
Photo by Newspower.it
Anak Verhoeven climbing to victory at the European Lead Championship, Campitello di Fassa 2017
Photo by Newspower.it
Adam Ondra climbing in the finals of the European Lead Championship, Campitello di Fassa 2017
Photo by Newspower.it
Female podium of the European Lead Championship at Campitello di Fassa: 2. Mina Markovic 1. Anak Verhoeven 3. Jessica Pilz
Photo by Newspower.it

Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven crowned European Climbing Champions at Campitello di Fassa

di

European Climbing Championships Campitello di Fassa: Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) are the new European Lead Champions. Adam Ondra (Cze) and Mina Markovic (Slo) win silver, Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jessica Pilz (Aut) win bronze. Italy’s Laura Rogora places 6th, Marcello Bombardi 7th.

European Lead Championships, final act. The final hurdle was destined to be difficult and also exciting. Also because the Campitello climbing wall was in for the ride: everyone knew by now that in order to breach its enormous overhang the climbers needed power, plenty of power, but they also needed to climb absolutely perfectly because mistakes were simply not permitted. The area in front of the wall filled to the brim with spectators; the excitement was palpable, a great show was about to begin and everyone knew it. And like in all finals, the starting order was the opposite of the semifinal ranking. First out therefore was the climber who placed 8th in the Semis a few hours earlier.

Laura Rogora sets the ball rolling, on the red route up the lefthand side of the wall. Rogora’s tiny, a feather that climbs higher and higher. At half-height she tries to battle through the huge red volumes, but then falls. The route seems like a sufferfest… In the meantime the male competition begins with Hannes Puman who shoots up the yellow route on the right displaying great determination, taking the route in his stride. The Swede makes huge headway, dominates past the enormous yellow volumes. And continues ever upwards… then he cuts loose, climbs footless, but falls. What a performance: he's climbed more than three quarters of the route! One can almost hear the spectators asking themselves “perhaps the men’s final is far too easy?”

Next out is France’s Nolwenn Arc who… fails in the roughly same area as Rogora did, but 4 holds lower that the Italian. Austria’s Katharina Posch suffers a similar fate, in the “filter” section through those enormous red volumes, below Rogora but ahead of Nolwenn. France’s Salomé Romain breaks the spell and, battling superbly, climbs past Rogora’s highpoint only to fall three holds higher. Yes, the women’s final is no giveaway. And even Austria’s Jessica Pilz - who manages to explore a few holds more than the others - falls relatively low down on the route.

In the meantime the men’s route is attempted by Domen Skofic,one of the absolute favourites for the coveted title despite not having excelled in the Semis. The Slovenian shoots up like a rocket, but then explodes one hold below the Swede. Confirming that yes, Puman had climbed supremely. Next out is home climber Marcello Bombardi; the crowd is behind him but the route is by no means easy and he falls far below those who preceded him. Now it’s time for Jakob Schubert, the Austrian who’s got us accustomed to witnessing memorable battles, and here he’s no different. On the final overhang he climbs miraculously, higher than everyone else before him: he’s first, one hold higher than Puman!

It’s the moment of truth. The time has come for the last three male and female athletes. They’re the best three from the Semis, the climbers everyone has been waiting for. France’s Thomas Joannes (one of the revelations of this championship) climbs first, but falls below the top 4. Mina Markovic displays all her class, experience and determination and matches Pilz’s highpoint; she takes the lead thanks to countback to the Semis.

Next out is Adam Ondra. Everyone knows he’s capable of miracles; he’s produced many already in his illustrious career. And so as he climbs for himself he becomes a pleasure to watch. He’s as fast as ever, but the exit through the roof is a section that worries even a man of his calibre. Actually, no: “wonder Ondra” gets up to another one of his tricks and finds a crazy knee-bar. After a short rest he continues his foray but suddenly falls off the same hold as Schubert, meaning that the Czech takes the lead thanks to countback. At this point only one athlete remains, Romain Desgranges… In the meantime Janja Garnbret - the one everyone has been waiting for - suffers like never before and finishes her climb one hold below Pilz. So in the women’s competition only Anak Verhoeven still has to climb, while Mina Markovic waits anxiously in provisional first.

The rest is history, as they say. France’s Romain Desgrange climbs like never before and even manages to eye the end of the immense overhang. He falls from up there, two holds above the previous highpoint, and is crowned European Lead Champion. Adam Ondra is second, Jakob Schubert third.

The curtain now falls on the European Championships with all eyes on Anak Verhoeven. And the Belgian dances the most magnificent of dances. She climbs upwards, ever upwards into the sky… well almost the sky, because she finishes her waltz one hold below the top. But her performance is absolutely immense. She’s the new European Champion Lead, ahead of grande Mina Markovic who wins silver and Jessica Pilz who takes home bronze. It’s been a great competition, a truly superb show!

Final results male European Championship Lead

1 Romain Desgranges FRA
2 Adam Ondra CZE
3 Jakob Schubert AUT
4 Hannes Puman SWE
5 Domen Skofic SLO
6 Thomas Joannes FRA
7 Marcello Bombardi ITA
8 Sascha Lehmann SUI

Final results female European Championship Lead
1 Anak Verhoeven BEL
2 Mina Markovic SLO
3 Jessica Pilz AUT
4 Janja Garnbret SLO
5 Salomé Romain FRA
6 Laura Rogora ITA
7 Katharina Posch AUT
8 Nolwenn Arc FRA

Info: www.fassaclimbingevents.com

Share

NEWS / Related news:
European Lead Championship, Bombardi and Rogora qualify for tonight's finals
01.07.2017
European Lead Championship, Bombardi and Rogora qualify for tonight's finals
In the Semifinals of the European Climbing Championships Lead at Campitello di Fassa Anak Verhoeven from Belgium produced to the top to lead the provisional ranking, along with France’s Romain Desgranges. Italian hopes are high for Marcello Bombardi and Laura Rogora who qualified for the finals that begin this evening at 21:00.
Marcin Dzienski, Iuliia Kaplina crowned European Speed Climbing Champions
01.07.2017
Marcin Dzienski, Iuliia Kaplina crowned European Speed Climbing Champions
Last night at Campitello di Fassa, Italy, Marcin Dzienski (POL) and Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) won the European Championship Speed. Italy’s Ludovico Fossali placed fourth.
European Climbing Championships, Stefano Ghisolfi provisional third after Lead qualifiers
30.06.2017
European Climbing Championships, Stefano Ghisolfi provisional third after Lead qualifiers
This morning Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi placed third in the qualifications of the European Climbing Championships Lead, behind Romain Desgranges (FRA) and Domen Skofic (SLO) but ahead of Adam Ondra (CZE) and Jakob Schubert (AUT). The other Italians to qualify for tomorrow’s Semifinal at Campitello di Fassa are Michael Piccolruaz, Marcello Bombardi, Filip Schenk and Francesco Vettorata. In the women’s event Janja Garnbret (SLO) placed provisional first with two tops. Italy’s Jenny Lavarda and Laura Rogora qualified, too.
European Climbing Championships - live streaming from Campitello di Fassa
30.06.2017
European Climbing Championships - live streaming from Campitello di Fassa
Day 1 of the European Climbing Championships at Campitello di Fassa 2017. From 9:15 live streaming of the Lead qualification mae and female. These will be followed be the Speed qualifiers and, in the evening, be the Speed finals.
Europe's top climbers converge in Italy's Val di Fassa
22.06.2017
Europe's top climbers converge in Italy's Val di Fassa
The IFSC European Climbing Championship (Lead and Speed) wil take place from 29 June - 1 July 2017 at Campitello di Fassa in Italy's Val di Fassa. Over 150 athletes will compete, with favourites for the lead title including Romain Desgranges, Stefano Ghisolfi , Adam Ondra and Domen Škofic.
Italian climbing team: European Championship dreams at Campitello di Fassa
01.06.2017
Italian climbing team: European Championship dreams at Campitello di Fassa
While the Val di Fassa Climbing club continues preparing for the IFSC European Climbing Championship (Lead and Speed) at the end of June, the Italian Climbing Team coached by Luca Giupponi has just spent four days training on the ADEL climbing wall.
Campitello di Fassa, Austrian Climbing team trains in Val di Fassa
28.05.2017
Campitello di Fassa, Austrian Climbing team trains in Val di Fassa
The video of the Austrian Climbing team that trained at Campitello in Val di Fassa, Italy, prior to European Climbing Championship scheduled to take place from 29 June to 1 July 2017.
Adam Ondra vs the European Climbing Championship wall in Val di Fassa
17.05.2017
Adam Ondra vs the European Climbing Championship wall in Val di Fassa
Czech climber Adam Ondra checked out the ADEL climbing wall which from 29 June to 1 July 2017 will host the European Climbing Championship.
Campitello di Fassa: less than 2 months to the European Climbing Championship
08.05.2017
Campitello di Fassa: less than 2 months to the European Climbing Championship
The countdown has begun to the European Climbing Championship, scheduled to take place from 29 June to 1 July 2017 at Campitello di Fassa, Italy. Val di Fassa will the Lead and Speed disciplines, as well as the Dolomiti Summer and Walking Festival and the traditional Dolomia meeting of historical mountaineering clubs of the Dolomites.
Campitello di Fassa to host the IFSC European Climbing Championships 2017
02.02.2017
Campitello di Fassa to host the IFSC European Climbing Championships 2017
The small town Campitello in Val di Fassa, Italy, will host the sport climbing European Championships Lead and Speed from 29 June to 1 July 2017. This is only the second time this prestigious climbing competition is disputed in Italy.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria