Lead World Cup: Austria wins in the USA
The sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2011 took place in Boulder (USA) last weekend and was won by Austrian Jakob Schubert and his teammate Johanna Ernst
Copia link
1 / 3
Johanna Ernst climbing to victory in Boulder, USA
ÖWK – Heiko Wilhelm
Jakob Schubert once again. For the sixth time running the Austrian has demonstrated that in the 2011 World Cup there can be only one: himself. This time Schubert confirmed his leadership in Boulder, Colorado (USA) by beating Sachi Amma from Japan - in crescendo and now in provisional second in this season's ranking - and Frenchman Romain Desgranges who is now 4th overall.
The men's final evidently mixed the cards somewhat because apart from Schubert and Amma, Sean McColl from Canada and Ramón Julian Puigblanque from Spain also qualified in joint first, but in the decisive round they slipped to 7th and 8th respectively. Things turned out differently for the other Frenchman in the Finals, Manuel Romain, for Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven and for the new entry - 20-year-old Matty Hong from the US - who finished 4th, 5th and 6th respectively.
The women's competition was marked by the return of Johanna Ernst and this triumph (in the making ever since 2009 and her victory in both the World Cup and the World Championship) was long-awaited after her injury in a bouldering competition in the States in early 2010. Silver went to Mina Markovic who benefited from the absence of her biggest rival, Korean Jain Kim (not present due to "incredible" VISA problems), while bronze went to Momoka Oda from Japan. These three were followed by the all usual suspects: Maja Vidmar 4th, Angela Eiter 5th, Akiyo Noguchi 6th, Sasha DiGiulian 7th and Charlotte Durif 8th.
Unfortunately no athlete travelled across the pond to defended Italy's colours and hopefully this won't repeat itself in the next stage in Jordania's Amman on 20 - 21 October.
Boulder (USA) 2011 8 - 9/10/2011
Men
1 Jakob Schubert AUT -38
2 Sachi Amma JPN -34
3 Romain Desgranges FRA -34
4 Manuel Romain FRA 33
5 Jorg Verhoeven NED 30
6 Matty Hong USA 29
7 Sean McColl CAN -18
8 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP -17
Women
1 Johanna Ernst AUT 48
2 Mina Markovic SLO -44
3 Momoka ODA JPN -42
4 Maja Vidmar SLO -42
5 Angela Eiter AUT -42
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN -42
7 Sasha DiGiulian USA 41
8 Charlotte Durif FRA -38
Ranking 2011 after 6 competitions
Men
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 600
2 Sachi Amma JPN 415
3 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP 381
4 Manuel Romain FRA 349
5 Romain Desgranges FRA 262
6 Hyunbin Min KOR 203
Thomas Tauporn GER 203
8 Gauthier Supper FRA 199
9 Mario Lechner AUT 197
10 Jorg Verhoeven NED 141
Women
1. Mina Markovic SLO 490
2. Jain Kim KOR 400
3. Maja Vidmar SLO 326
4. Angela Eiter AUT 271
5. Katharina Posch AUT 248
6. Christine Schranz AUT 236
7. Charlotte Durif FRA 227
8. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA 223
9. Yana Chereshneva RUS 207
Momoka ODA JPN 207
11. Johanna Ernst AUT 174
The men's final evidently mixed the cards somewhat because apart from Schubert and Amma, Sean McColl from Canada and Ramón Julian Puigblanque from Spain also qualified in joint first, but in the decisive round they slipped to 7th and 8th respectively. Things turned out differently for the other Frenchman in the Finals, Manuel Romain, for Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven and for the new entry - 20-year-old Matty Hong from the US - who finished 4th, 5th and 6th respectively.
The women's competition was marked by the return of Johanna Ernst and this triumph (in the making ever since 2009 and her victory in both the World Cup and the World Championship) was long-awaited after her injury in a bouldering competition in the States in early 2010. Silver went to Mina Markovic who benefited from the absence of her biggest rival, Korean Jain Kim (not present due to "incredible" VISA problems), while bronze went to Momoka Oda from Japan. These three were followed by the all usual suspects: Maja Vidmar 4th, Angela Eiter 5th, Akiyo Noguchi 6th, Sasha DiGiulian 7th and Charlotte Durif 8th.
Unfortunately no athlete travelled across the pond to defended Italy's colours and hopefully this won't repeat itself in the next stage in Jordania's Amman on 20 - 21 October.
Boulder (USA) 2011 8 - 9/10/2011
Men
1 Jakob Schubert AUT -38
2 Sachi Amma JPN -34
3 Romain Desgranges FRA -34
4 Manuel Romain FRA 33
5 Jorg Verhoeven NED 30
6 Matty Hong USA 29
7 Sean McColl CAN -18
8 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP -17
Women
1 Johanna Ernst AUT 48
2 Mina Markovic SLO -44
3 Momoka ODA JPN -42
4 Maja Vidmar SLO -42
5 Angela Eiter AUT -42
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN -42
7 Sasha DiGiulian USA 41
8 Charlotte Durif FRA -38
Ranking 2011 after 6 competitions
Men
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 600
2 Sachi Amma JPN 415
3 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP 381
4 Manuel Romain FRA 349
5 Romain Desgranges FRA 262
6 Hyunbin Min KOR 203
Thomas Tauporn GER 203
8 Gauthier Supper FRA 199
9 Mario Lechner AUT 197
10 Jorg Verhoeven NED 141
Women
1. Mina Markovic SLO 490
2. Jain Kim KOR 400
3. Maja Vidmar SLO 326
4. Angela Eiter AUT 271
5. Katharina Posch AUT 248
6. Christine Schranz AUT 236
7. Charlotte Durif FRA 227
8. Caroline Ciavaldini FRA 223
9. Yana Chereshneva RUS 207
Momoka ODA JPN 207
11. Johanna Ernst AUT 174
Note:
| www | |
 |
www.ifsc-climbing.org |
Latest news
Expo / News
Expo / Products
Adjustable lanyard for mountaineering and rock climbing by Climbing Technology
Down sleeping bag for multi‑season trekking.
Light climbing helmet with kevlar reinforcements.
High quality suede gloves designed for via ferrata.
Lightweight quickdraw ideal for onsight climbing
Karpos Rock Evo Pants, Perfect pants for any summer outdoor activity.