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Janja Garnbret doubles her takings and after winning the World Cup Lead 2016, wins the Lead World Cup 2017
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke
Anak Verhoven wins the penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 at Xiamen in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke
Keiichiro Korenaga competing in the penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 at Xiamen in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke
Ashima Shiraishi competing in the penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 at Xiamen in China
Photo by IFSC / Eddie Fowke

Janja Garnbret wins Lead World Cup 2017, Anak Verhoeven and Keiichiro Korenaga win in Xiamen

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The penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 was won yesterday at Xiamen in China by Anak Verhoeven from Belgium and Keiichiro Korenaga from Japan. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret placed third and secured overall victory in the Lead World Cup. The Speed World Cup 2017 was won by Anouck Jaubert from France and and Vladislav Deulin from Russia.

Terrible weather hampered play last weekend in Xiamen, China where, despite rain and driving winds, the organizers, route setters and athletes somehow managed to pull off the impossible during the penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2017.

Due to the heavy rain the female semifinal was initially postponed by a day, then eventually cancelled altogether, meaning that all 13 athletes who had topped out in both qualifiers automatically proceeded to yesterday’s final. The competition was won by Belgium’s Anak Verhoeven who, after a somewhat unlucky season, finally won her first World Cup event this season. America’s Ashima Shiraishi produced her best senior World Cup performance to date and placed second, ahead of Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret who placed third to win the overall 2017 World Cup title. Her impressive domination this season is worth focusing on: five victories and two bronze medals, which meant that she won the title with one competition to spare. Her goal now will surely be to win the last competition in mid-November, especially because as per tradition it takes place in front of her home crowd, at Kranj in Slovenia.

Tradition has it that the last stage is decisive in assigning the men’s title and in Xiamen the current leader, Romain Desgranges, surprisingly failed to qualify and ended up a disappointing 23rd. His biggest rival, Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi, qualified for the final but failed to capitalise on the French error and ended seventh. The 78-point gap separating the two is not impossible to breach but nevertheless considerable, while thanks to his victory in Xiamen Japan’s Keiichiro Korenaga lags only 23 points behind Ghisolfi. Just like last week in Wujiang, Bouldering World Champion Tomoa Narasaki and winner of the Boulder World Cup 2017 Jongwon Chon made it into the finals, finishing 2nd and 4th respectively. China’s YuFei Pan placed third, his best performance to date.

Xiamen also hosted the last stage of the Speed World Cup, won for the third time this season by Vladislav Deuli. The Russian beat Aspar Jaelolo in the final to win the season title, ahead of Iran’s Reza Alipourshenazandifar and an incredible Ludovico Fossali, fourth in China behind Kostiantyn Pavlenko.

In the women's competition the overall title went to Anouck Jaubert. In order to win the Cup the Frenchwoman needed strong nerves and at least second place to surpass last season’s winner Iuliia Kaplina who, as it happens, produced her worst performance this season and finished 23rd. Jaubert seized the opportunity and not only did she qualify for the final, but she even beat Aries Susanti Rahayu to deservingly take the 2017 title. In the small final, Anna Tsyganova beat Puji Lestari.

Xiamen
Lead Male

1 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 38+
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 34
3 Yufei Pan CHN 33
4 Jongwon Chon KOR 31+
5 Fedir Samoilov UKR 30+
6 Kokoro Fujii JPN 29+
7 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 26+
8 Haibin Qu CHN 17+

9 Thomas Joannes FRA
10 Hanwool Kim KOR
11 Masahiro Higuchi JPN
12 Minyoung Lee KOR
13 Martin Tekles GER
14 Francesco Vettorata ITA
15 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
16 Yuki Hada JPN
17 Domen Skofic SLO
18 Max Rudigier AUT
19 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN
20 Alberto Gotta ITA
21 Hannes Puman SWE
22 Romain Desgranges FRA
23 Marcello Bombardi ITA
24 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
25 Loïc Timmermans BEL
26 Christoph Hanke GER
27 Jan Hojer GER
28 Campbell Harrison AUS
29 Shinichiro Nomura JPN
30 Josh Levin USA
31 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
32 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
33 Joonha Shin KOR
34 Maciej Dobrzanski POL
34 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
36 Mykhayil Tkachuk UKR
37 Vsevolod Ilinykh RUS

Lead Female
1 Anak Verhoeven BEL Top
2 Ashima Shiraishi USA 34+
3 Janja Garnbret SLO 33+
4 Jessica Pilz AUT 33+
5 Mina Markovic SLO 33+
6 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 32+
6 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 32+
8 Jain Kim KOR 31+
8 Hannah Schubert AUT 31+
10 Risa Ota JPN 23+
11 Mathilde Becerra FRA 22+
11 Julia Chanourdie FRA 22+
11 Mei Kotake JPN 22+

14 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
15 Salomé Romain FRA
16 Lamu Renqing CHN
17 Magdalena Röck AUT
18 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA
19 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
20 Netta Fredman ISR
21 Hsiu-Ju Lin TPE
22 Jiwon Bae KOR
23 Anna Tsyganova RUS
24 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
25 Hung Ying Lee TPE
26 Yuzhen Baima CHN

Xiamen
Speed Male

1 Vladislav Deulin RUS 5.53
2 Aspar Jaelolo INA 5.70
3 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR 6.34
4 Ludovico Fossali ITA 7.21

5 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS
6 Qixin Zhong CHN
7 Guillaume Moro FRA
8 Hinayah Muhammad INA
9 Sabri Sabri INA
10 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
11 Leonardo Gontero ITA
12 Reza Alipourshena. IRI
13 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
14 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
15 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
16 Yulianto Abudzar INA
17 Georgy Artamonov RUS
18 Sufriyanto Rindi INA
19 Jinxin Li CHN
20 Zhiyong Ou CHN
21 Marcin Dzienski POL
22 Rafal Halasa POL
23 Alessandro Santoni ITA
24 Ehsan Asrar IRI
25 Fengqi Wang CHN
26 Yongsu Lee KOR
27 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
28 Jan Hojer GER
29 Jungju Kim KOR
30 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
31 Josh Levin USA
32 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
33 Morteza Mohammadi IRI
33 Pangeran Septo Wibowo Siburian INA

Speed Female
1 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.78
2 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 10.15
3 Anna Tsyganova RUS 8.16
4 Puji Lestari INA fall

5 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
6 Alla Marenych UKR
7 Mariia Krasavina RUS
8 Elena Timofeeva RUS
9 Santi Wellyanti INA
10 Cuilian He CHN
11 Anna Brozek POL
12 Victoire Andrier FRA
13 Fitriyani Fitriyani INA
14 Yiling Song CHN
15 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS
16 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA
17 Edyta Ropek POL
18 Syafiiyah Dhorifatus INA
19 Klaudia Buczek POL
20 Rajiah Sallsabillah INA
21 Mingwei Ni CHN
22 Peiyang Tian CHN
23 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
24 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS

Lead World Cup Speed 2017 - final results
Male
1 Vladislav Deulin RUS 470.00
2 Reza Alipourshenazandifar IRI 351.00
3 Ludovico Fossali ITA 346.00
4 Aleksandr Shikov RUS 338.00
5 Stanislav Kokorin RUS 331.00
6 Leonardo Gontero ITA 284.00
7 Qixin Zhong CHN 196.00
8 Guillaume Moro FRA 181.00
9 Danyil Boldyrev UKR 167.00
10 Marcin Dzienski POL 164.00
11 Aspar Jaelolo INA 160.00
12 Alessandro Santoni ITA 158.00
13 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR 147.00
14 Libor Hroza CZE 144.00
14 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS 144.00
16 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS 136.00
17 Georgy Artamonov RUS 128.00
17 Aleksandr Shilov RUS 128.00
19 Bassa Mawem FRA 110.00
20 Gian Luca Zodda ITA 108.00
21 Sabri Sabri INA 92.00
22 Rafal Halasa POL 88.00
23 Sufriyanto Rindi INA 81.00
24 Jinxin Li CHN 80.00
25 Yulianto Abudzar INA 66.00
26 Hinayah Muhammad INA 58.00
27 Jan Kriz CZE 47.00
27 Sergei Luzhetskii RUS 47.00
29 Jan Hojer GER 44.00
30 Penghui Lin CHN 43.00
31 Pangeran Septo Wibowo Siburian INA 42.00
32 Lukas Knapp AUT 41.00
32 Stanislao Zama ITA 41.00
34 Yongsu Lee KOR 40.00
35 Zhiyong Ou CHN 36.00
35 Fengqi Wang CHN 36.00
37 Carlos Granja ECU 28.00
37 Josh Levin USA 28.00
37 Tonny Mamiri INA 28.00
40 David Firnenburg GER 24.00
41 Cristian Dorigatti ITA 21.00
42 Dichong Huang CHN 20.00
43 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP 19.00
44 Michael Finn-Henry USA 18.00
45 Amir Maimuratov KAZ 16.00
45 Alimzhan Myrzabekov KAZ 16.00
45 Jordan Romig USA 16.00
45 Syabbuddin Syabbuddin INA 16.00
49 Maximillian Milne GBR 14.00
50 Joseph Czubkowski GBR 12.00
50 Artyom Devyaterikov KAZ 12.00
50 Jungju Kim KOR 12.00
50 Alexey Molchanov KAZ 12.00
54 Sungjoon Chae KOR 10.00
54 Alessandro Cingari ITA 10.00
56 Chi-Fung Au HKG 9.00
56 Alexander Averdunk GER 9.00
56 Noah Bratschi USA 9.00
56 Zhixuan Chen CHN 9.00
56 Orrin Coley GBR 9.00
61 Merritt Ernsberger USA 8.00
61 William Ridal GBR 8.00
61 Ihor Tiapkin UKR 8.00
64 Ehsan Asrar IRI 7.00
64 Seungwoon Cho KOR 7.00
64 Thomas Matthews GBR 7.00
67 Luke Muehring USA 6.00
67 Yufei Pan CHN 6.00
67 Juan Martin Peña ECU 6.00
67 Aidan Roberts GBR 6.00
71 Aiden Dunne GBR 5.00
71 Alexey Panfilov KAZ 5.00
71 Luke Rodley USA 5.00
71 Tomasz Sordyl POL 5.00
71 Andrey Yurin KAZ 5.00
76 Samuel Oakes GBR 4.00
76 Gabriele Randi ITA 4.00
76 Jongseok Son KOR 4.00
79 David Barrans GBR 3.00
79 Max Hammer USA 3.00
79 Rongqi Liang CHN 3.00
82 Peter Dawson GBR 2.00
82 Matthias Erber AUT 2.00
84 Sean Mccoll CAN 1.00
84 Shuangxi Mo CHN 1.00
84 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1.00
84 Mateusz Zaremba POL 1.00

Female
1 Anouck Jaubert FRA 545.00
2 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 525.00
3 Mariia Krasavina RUS 395.00
4 Anna Tsyganova RUS 331.00
5 Alla Marenych UKR 280.00
6 Aurelia Sarisson FRA 276.00
7 Anna Brozek POL 271.00
8 Edyta Ropek POL 213.00
9 Klaudia Buczek POL 179.00
10 Victoire Andrier FRA 177.00
11 Elena Timofeeva RUS 173.00
12 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS 142.00
13 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA 135.00
14 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA 120.00
15 Puji Lestari INA 112.00
16 Yiling Song CHN 111.00
17 Cuilian He CHN 100.00
18 Mingwei Ni CHN 87.00
19 Santi Wellyanti INA 80.00
20 Patrycja Chudziak POL 60.00
21 Di Niu CHN 59.00
22 Elma Fleuret FRA 58.00
23 Silvia Porta ITA 57.00
24 Andrea Rojas ECU 54.00
25 Nina Lach AUT 53.00
26 Assel Marlenova KAZ 48.00
27 Syafiiyah Dhorifatus INA 40.00
27 Alexandra Elmer AUT 40.00
27 Elena Remizova RUS 40.00
30 Iuliia Panteleeva RUS 38.00
30 Wangmu Renzeng CHN 38.00
32 Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh IRI 34.00
33 Tamara Kuznetsova KAZ 32.00
33 Francesca Vasi ITA 32.00
35 Fitriyani Fitriyani INA 30.00
36 Giorgia Randi ITA 29.00
37 Monika Prokopiuk POL 27.00
38 Andrea Kümin SUI 26.00
39 Svetlana Sharova RUS 24.00
40 Svetlana Motovilova RUS 22.00
40 Alannah Yip CAN 22.00
42 Daria Kan RUS 20.00
42 Ashima Shiraishi USA 20.00
44 Seohyun Kim KOR 18.00
45 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 16.00
45 Rajiah Sallsabillah INA 16.00
45 Christy Spurrell CAN 16.00
48 Farina Handayani INA 15.00
49 Anastasiia Golikova RUS 14.00
49 Xuhua Pan CHN 14.00
51 Philippa Watkin GBR 12.00
51 Martina Zanetti ITA 12.00
53 Jennifer De La Torre USA 10.00
54 Saedasom Jung KOR 9.00
54 Peiyang Tian CHN 9.00
54 Jennifer Wood GBR 9.00
57 Claire Buhrfeind USA 8.00
57 Kitty Morrison GBR 8.00
57 Jessica Pilz AUT 8.00
60 Joanna Neame GBR 7.00
60 Sunga Son KOR 7.00
62 Sara Morandini ITA 6.00
63 Natalia Wos POL 5.00
64 Kyra Condie USA 4.00
64 Tetiana Kolkotina UKR 4.00
66 Anastasiya Zaichenko UKR 2.00
67 Alina Ring SUI 1.00
67 Alessandra Zanetti ITA 1.00

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