|It's no secret: the future belongs to the new generation. To confirm how true this really is, just take a glance at the Czech Republic, where 12 year old Adam Ondra & company are playfully demonstrating that the current limits have almost reached their best before date, while the future limits, those real ones, are still distant... light years away. |
At the end of 2004 wonder Ondra hit the limelight by celebrating New Year with a bang: in the super steep Italian Grotta del Aeronauta (Sperlonga) Adam wasted no time and sent Mascherina. The grade? 8c. His age at the time? Just 11 years old. Add to this extreme redpoint his long list of 8a+ onsights. And fast 8b and 8b+ ascents, such as Missing drink at Misja Pec in March. Shake, stir and reflect. Seriously.
Adam has now returned to make the French crags tremble. Making the most of the spring school holidays, the new power generation (Adam Ondra, Martin StrÃ¡nÃk, Tereza and Anna CermÃ¡k plus adults) travelled 3000km for a lightening quick rock trip to the south of France. During the 11 day availible, the group travelled to Gorges de Loup, Peillon, St. Leger, Chateauvert and Buoux, redpointing up to F8c and onsighting up to F8b.
A short resume is published below. All that remains to be added is that Adam managed to onsight even Chouca 8a+ at Buoux, and that his is probably the first OS of this mythical route. For those whose memory goes back somewhat, this line of single and two-finger pockets was a significant milestone in the history of sports climbing: freed by the Frenchman Antoine le Menestrel, at 8a+ it was the hardest route in the world to be climbed by a woman, by none other than Catherine Destivelle, over 17 years ago. Adam and Martin weren't even born at the time.
Spring rock trip France 2005
date of birth: 05/02/1993
20 routes above 8a including:
7PM JP Chaud 8c, Gorges de Loup
Bout du souffeÂ 8b, OS, Peilon
Das boot 8b, flash, Peillon
AbregeniefÂ 8b, St. Leger
date of birth: 08/03/1990
19 routes above 8a including:
Abregenief 8b, St. Leger,
Das Boot 8b, Peillon,
New power generation 8b, Gorges du Loup
| || || |