Silvio Reffo, 9a and 8c+ at Arco and the Frankenjura
At Arco in Italy Silvio Reffo has repeated Bio-logiko 9a, while in Germany's Frankenjura he sent Odd fellows and Steinbock 8c as well as Battle cat 8c+. Young Stefano Carnati is on top form too with a rare repeat of Spirit Walker 8c at Sasso Remenno in Val di Mello
The young Italian sports climbers Silvio Reffo and Stefano Carnati had a productive April, managing to send a series of hard climbs in Val di Mello, Arco and the Frankenjura. For Carnati's report about his rare repeat of the historic Spirit Walker 8c at Sasso Remenno we'll have to wait for a couple of hours, in the meantime here's the update by Reffo who arrived in Val Masino last night for the Melloblocco bouldering event.
APRILE 2014 by Silvio Reffo
Last April really was an intense month, during which I managed to send a handfull of hard climbs. Thanks to the excellent weather conditions and my good form I made the third ascent of Biologica 9a at Arco, the route freed by Adam Ondra and repeated by Gabriele Moroni last year. During the Easter break the only high pressure system seemed to be in the Frankenjura and so I went there and managed to redpoint the 8c's Odd fellows and Steinbock; the former is technical and fingery up a steep face, the second is short and explosive through a pocketed roof. The icing on the cake was my ascent of Battle cat 8c+. I'd tried it a couple of times without making much headway last year and this time round I sent it second go. Unlike most other routes in the Frankenjura, this beautiful route is a long stamina test.