Riccardo Moretti climbs Grandi Gesti at Sperlonga
On 6/12/2017 young Italian climber Riccardo Moretti redpointed Grandi Gesti at Sperlonga, one of the reference 9a sport climbs in Central Italy. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
On Wednesday, December 6, 22-year-old Riccardo Moretti from Rome repeated Grandi Gesti in the Grotta dell'Arenauta cave at Sperlonga. This is his first 9a and a reference point for Central Italy. Riccardo sent me his thoughts, a video and some photos from his ascent.
"The redpoint didn't require much time, I started trying it the day I repeated Invidia, the 8b+ that shares the same finish as Grandi Gesti. Already on that first day of playing around I unexpectedly managed to do all the single moves and make some promising attempts, so I realised it was within my grasp and started some specific training for this new project.
I returned to the grotto for two consecutive weekends, each attempt provided me with some new beta, and after falling off the last hold I vowed I'd be back as soon as possibile to finish it off! I spent the next day and night thinking about nothing else but the moves, and returned on Wednesday 6 DEcember. After a good warm-up I gave it a go but failed after having made a couple of mistakes.
When I lowered off I thought about how I'd managed to make mistakes where I hadn't ever made any before. I rested and decided to give it one more go, and it proved to be the good one! I climbed completely automatically and without even realising it I clipped the chain. As I mentioned right after the ascent, I don't think it's a difficult 9a, given the effort I had to put in, but I'd prefer to leave the ungrateful task of downgrading the climb to some other top climber."