Ragni di Lecco climbing in Mali
Last December four Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers travelled to Mali where they made three new first ascents in the Hombori region of the African republic.
Last December four Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers travelled to Mali where they made three new first ascents in the Hombori region of the African republic. The group, comprised of Marco Vago, Simone Pedeferri, Adriano Selva, Giovanni Ongaro and Cesare Bugada, repeated numerous existing routes before establishing "Erosione solare" (6b; 6a obbl.), "Passaggio Dogon" (7b; 6b obbl. expo) and "Danza Tribale" 7b; 6c+ obbl.) in the legendary Mani di Fatma range. The expedition was part of the 60th anniversary celebration of the Ragni di Lecco which has climbed new routes in Morocco, the Alps and Sardinia.
According to Vago the potential is enormous: "hundreds of walls, 200-500m high, all beautfiul compact sandstone. And there are definitely many more which we didn't even see. ...These areas obviously lack high snowy peaks and are therefore far removed from most people's idea of mountaineering. Nevetheless Mali is as severe and harsh as Patagonia, albeit with different problems. It's a condensed antithesis of paradise and hell and behind the idyllic vision of esotic landsapes and sun blessed walls lie the ghosts of bacterial infection and dehydration. The people are very poor and their lives basic, but they are always very dignified and full of joy, and this is one of the things that struck me most, the fact that everyone always smiled and was curious, they were always extremely hospitable and ready to share what they have, despite it being very little indeed, with us visitors."
Grimari - DÃ©bÃ©rÃ© - S Face
F.A: S.C. e B. Marnette Yaye, Giovanni Ongaro, Cesare Bugada
Length: 270m, 6 pitches
Grade: 6b (6a obbl.)
Gear: 8 quickdraws; 1 set of camming devices up to 3 BD and 1 micro, some slings, 1 set of nuts
Descent: 60m abseils down the route
F.A: Giovanni Ongaro, Adriano Selva
Length: 300m, 8 pitches
Grade: 7b (6b obbl. expo)
Gear: 8 quickdraws; 2 sets of camming devices up to 3 BD and 1 micro, slings, 1 set of nuts, 60m ropes
Descent: abseil down the line of ascent
Suri Tondo - Mali
F.A: Giovanni Ongaro, Marco Vago, Adriano Selva, Cece Bugada, Simone Pedeferri
Length: 500m, 13 pitches
Grade: 7b (6c+ obbl.)
Gear: 5 rinvii; 1 set of Alien; Friend 0.50, 0.75, 1, 2, 3, 4; 1 set of nuts
Descent: from the summit 1 abseil down the Polish route, cross the ledge, then 60m abseils down the line of ascent.