Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria

Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, is a gigantic 128m high sea stack a short walk from Baunei, on one of the wildest and most fascinating coastlines in Sardinia. The first climb dates back to 1981, established by Marco Bernardi and Alessandro Gogna. It’s not a proper climb in the conventional sense but a 250m grade V+ traverse, 2 to 10m above the waterline. Back in those days these sea traverses were a fairly ordinary occurrence, one just has to think about the famous In Scio Bolesomme at Capo Noli for instance. These traverses were done with ropes, pegs, belays were established, just like on a normal route.

Not many people know that about this traverse at Pedra Longa which happens to have a beautiful name: Luce senza memoria, light without memory. Perhaps because no pegs or slings mark the way, as tends to be the case nowadays; the line of the route is completely free, everyone can interpret the climb and sequence of holds as they wish. But those who do know about the climb repeat it annually, without a rope, only with climbing shoes, a chalk bag and usually a swimsuit ... because you never know if a hold might be slippery!

For those who love the safety of a rope, I recently added a new climb to Pedra Longa, this time up the steep South Face. Cromosomi Corsari is a "Dolomite marine climb", up rock which at times needs a bit of care, but the surroundings are so beautiful they take your breath away.

For more information about this route check out: www.pietradiluna.com/cromosomi-corsari-pedra-longa-baunei-sardegna

Happy climbing, with or without a rope!

Maurizi Oviglia

Luce Senza Memoria



11/11/2013 - Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces "Marinaio di foresta" (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).