New routes on Gran Paradiso, Ciarforin

Four new routes on Ciarforin, Gran Paradiso, Italy.

Maurizio Oviglia

October 2000

Maurizio Oviglia on the third pitch of "Cadeau Surprise" (6b) on the Ciarforin
photo Eugenio Pinotti

The details

Parete del Ciarforin
Gran Paradiso group
Valsavarenche, N. Italy
Rock: gneiss - Orientation: west
Vie nuove:

Jasmine (left of Diedro Bionaz), 130 m, 7b (obligatory 6b+)
FA: M. Ogliengo and M. Oviglia.

Cadeau Surprise 235 m, 6c (6a+ obligatory)
FA: M. Ogliengo and M. Oviglia.

The sherpa brothers 240 m, 6c, (6b obligatory)
FA: M. Ogliengo and M. Oviglia P. Raspo, M. Bal.

L'esprit de la montagne 250 m, 6b, (6a obligatory)
FA: M. Ogliengo and M. Oviglia.

Gear: nuts & friends, two 50m ropes. Crack climbing up to 6a/6b.

The Guidebook

ROCK PARADISE
Arrampicate classiche, moderne e sportive nelle valli del Gran Paradiso
Maurizio Oviglia
Coll. Luoghi Verticali
Ed. Versante Sud, 2000

A series of new routes were established at the beginning of September on the Ciarforin on the Gran Paradiso.

The Italian Mountain Guides Mario Ogliengo, Patrick Raspo and Massimo Bal, together with Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and Eugenio Pinotti, spent four days setting up new routes and retro-bolting old ones on this gneiss outcrop close to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele.

On the first day Pinotti, Oviglia, and Marchi repeated Diedro Bionaz (1986, (Diff. TD sup, max 6a+, 150m) and, after having spoken with the first-ascentionists, retro-bolted the route by adding twin-bolt belays and about two bolts per pitch. The route is now graded 6a+ (6a obligatory), 130 m long, and destinned to become a classic in the near future!
The three then repeated "I segreti del Guardiaparco" (Diff. TD sup, max
6a/b, var. 6b+ , 150m) which had been rebolted in August.
In the meantime Ogliengo, Raspo and Bal started to bolt a new route but had to turn back beneath the final pitch because the batteries had run out.

On the second day Ogliengo and Oviglia set up the difficult "Jasmine", to the left of Diedro Bionaz and graded it 7b (6b+ obligatory), 130m).

"Cadeau Surprise" was a gift on the third day, again by the duo Oviglia and Ogliengo. Eight fantastic pitches graded 6c (6a+ obligatory) gave rise to its name.

On the final day the duo finished off "The sherpa brothers", 240 m, 6c max 6b obligatory) set up on the first day and created the easy "L'esprit de la montagne", 250m, 6a obligatory), bound to become one of the most repeated routes this side of the Gran Paradiso.

The routes take natural pro and two 50m ropes are needed. The bolting is similar to that on Mont Blanc's Triolet, but in some cases more run-out.

The climbers would like to thank the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele for its hospitality and Sherpa Chhongba for his friendship and help in carrying the gear to the refuge.