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Mauro Calibani making the first ascent of Hole’s Trilogy 8c at Roccamorice, Abruzzo, Italy
Photo by Andrea Vagnoni
Mauro Calibani making the first ascent of Hole’s Trilogy 8c at Roccamorice, Abruzzo, Italy
Photo by Andrea Vagnoni
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Mauro Calibani climbs Hole's Trilogy at Roccamorice


On 14/06/2013 at Roccamorice in Abruzzo (Italy) Mauro Calibani made the first ascent of Hole’s Trilogy, a new 8c. Mauro Calibani provides the report.

The other day I climbed it.

When they showed it to me I was speechless, the boulder was there, still, immobile since who knows when, having fallen from the crag above and stopped just above the river bed; it saw it for the first time at night, in the beam of my head torch it seemed beautiful, silver grey, a piece of precious rock.

It wedged itself into the side of my mind and ever since then I began to yearn to climb it.

Powerful desires frighten me, because when I want but fail to get something, I become hurt, hurt inside.

I decided to put myself to the test.

This time the trick worked, it all worked out for the best.

The line winds its way past a barrage of small pockets, as sharp as razor blades through the centre of the face up slice of 50° overhanging rock.

When I sent it everything fit into just the right place, my body traced harmonious moves while I suffered due to the severe pain of my skin and tendons stacked into the pockets

A special thanks goes to the person who bolted it and I apologise for having changed its name, for having chosen to reinterpret it based on my personal liking (the original name is still written at the base).

A rare line, pure and shamelessly beautiful.

Keep doing what you love!
Keep loving what you do!

by Mauro Calibani





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