Martin Keller adds new 8C to Chironico
At Chironico in Switzerland Martin Keller has sent a new boulder problem, Der mit dem Fels tanzt 8C.
Stating that Martin Keller has had a sort of love-affair with the boulder problem "Der mit dem Fels tanzt" at Chironico certainly isn't an exaggeration: the 34-year old has finally solved the problem after three years of trying. Three years spent on the 18 moves for which he invested 150%. And, above all, three years during which he breathed, lived, learnt this problem in all its intimate secrets, even courting it at 2am to find the best conditions.
In short, perhaps this is one of those climbs which, more than most, demonstrates and proves what it really means to "abandon" yourself into climbing... into a true project. So much so that the words dream and journey aptly describe this experience. And for us this ascent reveals - once again - one of the most profound aspects of this game and search: climbing's ability to capture and become a "magnificent obsession".
"I finally got my little bit of luck. the perfect day. the perfect go. no tiny error but also no power left for even one more move. thats how it feels when you climb on/over your limit. just perfect ;)"
Fot those who love grades it's worth noting that "He who dances with rock" is estimated at 8C. But this, after more than 100 days spent yearning for the solution, is certainly only a minor detail of Keller's far more complete and beautiful story.
Martin Keller - selction of boulder problems
Der mit dem fels tanzt - Chironico, first ascent, 8C
Deadalus - Sustenpass, first ascent, 8B+
Ikarus - Sustenpass, first ascent, 8B+
The Dagger - Cresciano 8B+
Collateral - Chironico, first ascent without chipped hold, 8B+
Confessions - Cresciano, third ascent, 8B/+
No mystery - Chironico, first ascent after a hold broke, 8B
Supertussi - Brione, first ascent, 8B
Riverbed - Avers, 8B
Bogalagga - Chironico, 8B
La soucoupe - Chironico, 8B
One summer in paradise - Avers, second ascent
No Mystery (low), Chironico.