Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
At Siurana in Spain Jacopo Larcher from Italy has flashed the climb Kale Borroka 8b+. His story.
Young Jacopo Larcher from Italy checked in with a great ascent just the other day by flashing Kale Borroka, an 8b+ at Siurana in Spain. "Truth be told this is the first time I've tried a route like this in this style" the 22 -year-old told planetmountain "but after having clipped the chain I realised that I still had more in store... let's hope I can confirm this in the future :)"
Before reading the first-hand account from Innsbruck-based meteorolgy student, it's worth underlining that this ascent is extremely impressive indeed. In fact, as yet no Italian has on-sighted 8c and the best performances include the two 8b+ on-sights by Cristian Brenna of Mortal Kombat at Castillon in France and Gheghori at Covolo and, at the same crag, Luca Zardini's flash of Shalom 8b+.
Kale Borroka... by Jacopo Larcher
I've spent much time at Siurana but every time I drive up the narrow road which leads to the small village, I'm drawn in by the magnificent orange prow which stands out against the rest of the valley and which is the hallmark of the sector "El Pati". Even if I had never climbed there before, this section of rock and the routes which breach it have always meant something special for me.
I remember my first trip to Spain, with Carlo, how we looked at those lines in awe, dreaming of perhaps one day being capable of climbing them. One in particular had caught my attention and silently I hoped to be able to send it first go.
Now, for the first time after many years, I was tied in beneath the imposing prow: it felt strange, but while looking upwards just before setting off into my little dream, I was overcome by a feeling of extreme confidence which, as it turned out, guided me through 45 metres of perfect rock and happiness...
My best memories:
Dures Limites 8c, Ceuse
Bah Bah Black Sheep 8c/+, Ceuse
L'ami de tout le monde 8b, Ceuse
Dolce vita 8a+, Ceuse
Monnaie de singe 8a, Ceuse
Kale Borroka 8b+, Siurana
Chacun sa mafia 8b, Saustall
Supermaratona 8b, Massone
Lucky Luca Extension, 8b+/c Kalymnos
Radote joli pépère 8b, Ceuse... But the list is never ending..."