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Fred Moix climbing Greenspit, Valle dell'Orco
Photo by Eric Blanc
Didier Berthod making the first free ascent of Greenspit, Valle dell'Orco.
Photo by Fred Moix
Ray Jardine in 1977 making the second ascent of Separate Reality in Yosemite. This famous photo was used on the front cover of Reinhold Messner's book the 7th grade and also on the cover of the British magazine Mountain, and inspired generations of climbers.
Photo by Ray Jardine archive

Greenspit, Fred Moix climbing The Warrior's Roof in Valle dell'Orco

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The short film The Warrior’s Roof by Christophe Margot retracing the first ascent of Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco, Italy at the hands of Didier Berthod and documenting the October 2016 repeat by Fred Moix.



In some respects Greenspit has a lot in common with Separate Reality in Yosemite. A horizontal granite roof split in two by an extraordinary crack, and a photo that immediately captures the imagination of generations of climbers.

While Separate Reality was immortalised in the famous photograph of Ray Jardine during the second ascent of this Ron Kauk masterpiece back in 1977, Greenspit became famous in 2003 when Swissman Didier Berthod made the first ascent of this 12 meter above Rosone in Valle dell’Orco.

At the time Greenspit was hailed as one of the hardest trad cracks in the world, and Berthod was belayed and later photographed by Fred Moix who on 7 October 2016 - 13 years after that first ascent - made a rare repeat of this legendary climb.

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NEWS / Related news:
Greenspit, Valle dell'Orco, for Didier Berthod
02.10.2003
Greenspit, Valle dell'Orco, for Didier Berthod
Didier Berthod has freed "Greenspit" using trad gear only above Rosone, Valle dell'Orco.
Didier Berthod cleans Greenspit, Valle dell Orco
03.10.2005
Didier Berthod cleans Greenspit, Valle dell Orco
After his 2003 pinkpoint, Didier Berthod has now climbed Greenspit placing the gear on lead, making it a contender for one of the hardest crack climbs in Europe.
The routes climbing photographers dream of
28.11.2016
The routes climbing photographers dream of
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Stevie Haston repeats Greenspit in Valle del Orco
04.12.2009
Stevie Haston repeats Greenspit in Valle del Orco
British climber Stevie Haston has made a flash ascent of Greenspit in Valle del Orco, Italy
Valle del Orco, Greenspit repeats and new route flurry
31.08.2009
Valle del Orco, Greenspit repeats and new route flurry
At the start of August a strong British team travelled to Italy's Valle del Orco where they managed to carry out the third ascent of Greenspit and forge five new routes high above the valley floor.
Nicolas Favresse repeats Greenspit and Itaca nel sole in Valle dell' Orco, Italy
08.05.2008
Nicolas Favresse repeats Greenspit and Itaca nel sole in Valle dell' Orco, Italy
Nicolas Favresse has made the first repeats of "Greenspit" 8b+ and "Itaca nel sole" 8b in the Orco valley, Italy.

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