Home page Planetmountain.com
Peter Zabrok and Sean Warren making the first repeat of Adrift, El Capitan, Yosemite (05-06/2017)
Photo by Paul Pritchard
Peter Zabrok and Sean Warren making the first repeat of Adrift, El Capitan, Yosemite (05-06/2017)
Photo by Peter Zabrok, Sean Warren
Alex Honnold and Peter Zabrok on the summit of El Capitan, Yosemite, after the first repeat of Adrift carried out by Zabrok and Sean Warren (05-06/2017)
Photo by Peter Zabrok, Sean Warren
Steve Quinlan making the first ascent of Adrift, El Capitan, Yosemite, climbed in 1994 together with Paul Pritchard
Photo by Paul Pritchard

El Capitan: Peter Zabrok and Sean Warren make long-awaited first repeat of Adrift in Yosemite

di

American rock climber Peter Zabrok and Britain's Sean Warren have made the long-awaited first repeat of Adrift, the difficult big wall aid climb up the SE Face of El Capitan first ascended in early 1994 by Steve Quinlan and Paul Pritchard.

El Capitan exploit not only for Alex Honnold, but also for America's Peter Zabrok and Britain's Sean Warren who have pulled off what is likely to be only the second ascent of Adrift, the difficult aid climb up the SE Face of El Capitan established back in early 1994 by America’s Steve Quinlan and Britain’s Paul Pritchard.

Originally rated 5.11 A3+ VI, the 1000m route climbs a line to the right of Mescalito and to the left of Wall of Early Morning Light, and sections of the route were shared by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson when the duo made the first free ascent of the most difficult free climb on El Cap, Dawn Wall in 2015.

Despite being such a plumb line, surprisingly the route is reported to have never been repeated in its entirety, and in mid May Zabrok and Warren decided to set the record straight. Using a mix of free climbing and aid climbing the two topped out on 6 June, after having spent 15 nights on the route and experiencing what Zabrok told planetmountain.com was "a bit of an adventure." - a reference not only to a 40-foot fall Warren took, but also because an imprecise topo made route finding somewhat of a challenge. Zabrok stated "the route is excellent and really deserves to be climbed more often. Pritchard and Quinlan did an excellent job."

Remembering his 1994 ascent, Pritchard told planetmountain.com "Adrift climbs the first 8 pitches of what is now Free Dawn before going right up a slanting weakness across the Pacific Ocean to PO Wall. It is one of the most natural lines on the East Face of El Cap, with probably about 14 new pitches at the time. I climbed it with Steve Quinlan just before we left for Baffin Island and made the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Asgard, via our climb Hyperborea." Asked why the route had lain dormant for so long, Pritchard replied "I think big wall aid went out of fashion for a while but it seems to be back now."

This is Zabrok’s 57 different route on El Capitan but as the 57-year-old states "Actually I’ve climbed El Cap over 60 times, having also repeated the Zodiac and done The Nose in day a couple of times. But my proudest number is the number of nights I have spent sleeping on the side of El Cap, not counting sleeping at the base or on the summit… 717 nights."

Share

NEWS / Related news:
Alex Honnold: first video of Freerider free solo up El Capitan
06.06.2017
Alex Honnold: first video of Freerider free solo up El Capitan
The first video of Alex Honnold’s free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite, carried out by the American climbs on 3 June 2017.
Alex Honnold, the free solo beyond the norm
05.06.2017
Alex Honnold, the free solo beyond the norm
Rock climbing beyond the limits: thoughts about the scope of Alex Honnold's recent free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan (Yosemite).
Alex Honnold free solo climbs El Capitan, Yosemite
04.06.2017
Alex Honnold free solo climbs El Capitan, Yosemite
American rock climber Alex Honnold has made a free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite. In doing so he has become the first person to climb El Capitan without ropes.
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15.01.2015
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with two pitches graded 5.14d (9a), this is probably the hardest big wall in the world.
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
08.04.2016
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
On April 4, 2016 British climber Paul Pritchard summited the Totem Pole, the amazing obelisk in Tasmania where he suffered a nigh fatal fall in 1998. As a result of that incident Pritchard was left partially paralysed and now, 18 years later, his ascent celebrates a conquest and circle that has now been closed.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria
  • Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem
    la cascata è stata salita nel 97 da carlotti e compagni. r ...
    2015-01-06 / francesco lamo