Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting
One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.
Italy’s splendid Orco Valley, located to the west of Turin, has traditionally been the home to some of the country’s premier trad climbing but beneath its splendid granite rock faces sits some of country’s greatest bouldering potential. With the advent of the first Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in 2014 new sectors were discovered and cleaned and currently there are nine main areas which previously had never been caressed with by chalk-covered fingers. 130 boulders host a total of 350 problems, and these don’t include the historic sector below the Sergent rock face, famous above all for the Fessura Kosterlitz, nor all those gems discovered by Austrian powerhouse Bernd Zangerl.
This Saturday and Sunday the newest sector will be officially inaugurated, El Dorado. This is located next to the river where, in former days, diggers searched for real gold. we found something equally precious, namely huge nuggets of smooth gneiss. At present circa 30 boulders have been cleaned; situated close to each other, this is certainly the most complete bouldering area in Ceresole Reale. There are problems for everyone, from easy to very difficult, short and highball, slabs, overhangs, crimps… 120 new problems cleaned for Orcoblocco 2017.
This year a magnificent area appeared which, unfortunately, we won’t be able to visit as it is submerged by the waters of Lake Ceresole Reale. This beautiful sector can be visited in mid-season, when the lake is empty and the sun gently warms the rock. Called Atlantide for obvious reasons, it will be included in the Orcoboulder guidebook that will be published by the end of the year.
10 BEST BOULDER PROBLEMS
- Alambicco, sector Barcaiolo (7b)
- Rattigan, sector Barcaiolo (7a)
- Antinarderlitz, sector Fonti Minerali (7c)
- Maestro di Sì, sector Fonti Minerali (7b)
- Fessura Cammazza, sector Tesla (6b)
- Gozer il Gozeriano, sector Gozer (7b)
- Marinai d'acqua dolce, sector Fonti Alte (6b+)
- Il mondo del tanga, sector Gold Digger (7a+)
- sector El Dorado, stay tuned!
- Oppimus, sector Poma (6c+)
- Lucifero, sector Atlantide (7b)
Topo: bouldering in Valle dell'Orco
Take the motorway A4 for Turn, leave this at Santhià and head towards Aosta. Exit at Ivrea and continue towards Cuorgnè, then Ceresole Reale following signs for SP 460. 180km, 2:15.
Reach Caselle following Turin's northern ringroad, or take SP 460 that leads from Turin to Ceresole Reale, driving past Rivarolo Canavese. 80km 1:15.
Take the motorway A5 towards Turin, exit at Ivrea, continue for Cuorgnè and Ceresole Reale. 130 km 1:45.
Public transport: reach Ceresole Reale using the Canavesana buses run by GTT. Rivarolo Canavese can be reached by train from Turin Porta Susa. From Rivarolo Canavese take the GTT bus up into Valle dell'Orco and Ceresole Reale. Pont Canavese can be reached by train; buses lead from here directly to Ceresole Reale. info 800019152.