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Bernd Zangerl making the first ascent of 29dots in Val Noasca
Photo by Bernd Zangerl
Bernd Zangerl making the first ascent of 29dots in Val Noasca
Photo by Bernd Zangerl
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Bernd Zangerl joins 29dots in Val Noasca

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Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl​ has made the first ascent of 29 dots, describing the highball in Val Noasca - Valle dell'Orco, Italy, as "the proudest, the hardest piece of rock I climbed in this style."

After his first eye-opening visit in autumn 2011, Austria’s Bernd Zangerl has made the beautiful Val Noasca in Italy’s Gran Paradiso National Park a fixed agenda in his climbing calendar. His repeated trips have resulted in "some of the best & technical hardest climbs" he has ever done on granite and since these words come from one of the most experienced and widely travelled boulderers in the world, it may well be worth considering the Valle dell'Orco for your next climbing trip.

Zangerl told planetmountain.com "I spent over a month in-between May and June in the idyllic village of Noasca. I love the people there, the mountains and obviously the boulders dotted around the valley and side valleys. I cleaned a number of new lines and also tackled a series of difficult problems, including one which I believe is real highlight in my 15 year-bouldering career - 29dots. It’s circa 14m high and overhangs 2.5 meters and starts up razor-sharp holds that lead to the crux move 7m above the deck. Your skin is feeling a bit rough at that point, but the climbing above is still fairly deeming with lots of air under your feet!

I never really search for this kind of adventure, but suddenly it’s in front of you and have to be a 100% sure about your motives, your motivation. You have to look inside yourself and listen. I listened for many days, until finally I made my decision. I placed two pads on the ground, took a deep breath. Moments later I reached the top. 29dots is the proudest, the hardest piece of rock I climbed in this style. A great moment, a highlight in my bouldering career."

For the record, Zangel’s climbing career spans over 2 decades and includes the first repeat, in 2001, of Fred Nicole’s Dreamtime, as well as the first ascents of Viva la EvolutionAnam Cara and Memento. Other climbs worth noting are the unrepeated sitstart to Falsche Götter (2003; fb.8a+) and Double trouble (2005) as well as the highballs False Gods (8a+, 2003) Unknow-ungraded (fb.8b, 2008) and Ciao Giovanni (2013).


25/05/2013 - Bernd Zangerl and his boulder problems in Val Noasca
Bernd Zangerl's best boulder problems in Val Noasca, Valle dell' Orco, Italy.


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