Arthur Kubista in Sardinia

Arthur Kubista frees new routes in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia

February 2000

by Maurizio Oviglia

It is no secret that Sardinia
with its exposed, Verdonesque multi-pitch routes and multitude of high quality, small crags is a fantastic place for sports climbing .
The Austrian Arthur Kubista fell in love with this island some time ago, leaving his mark with his creation 'Raga' 8b+/8c. He returned briefly this February, but not before adding two new desperates on the continent to his list of hard first ascents.

In 1999
Kubista made headlines when he freed the much-tried 'Guere d'Usure', 8c, at Claret, France. He then travelled to Sperlonga, Italy, where he swiftly dispensed with 'Invidia', 8c, repeated shortly afterwards by the Italian Jolly Lamberti.

Kubista’s list
of hard ascents is impressive, for he has climbed five 8c’s and one 8c+: one of these is a highly technical vertical face and remains unrepeated. Kubista works as a guide in Vienna, where he organises climbing courses. He enjoys travelling and sleeps in his camper van for weeks on end, as used to be the case in the 80’s. His love for Italy is due to the warmth of the local climbers, something he missed on his travels in France. On a trip to Sardinia he met Maurizio Oviglia, one of the prime activists on the island, and it was he who invited Kubista to try some of the newest, unclimbed lines.

During the Christmas holidays
Kubista therefore travelled south and promptly ascended 'Il tiranno dei Mondi', 8b, located in the steep Tana delle tigri, Domusnovas. He describes this tufa dream as one of his best routes ever. Not content, he then onsighted two 7c+ and tried an extension to 'Fratellini Chimici', 8a+. Unable to free this, he left for mainland.

In February 2000,
Kubista fled Vienna and once again returned to Sardinia to free this project. Two days effort brought its just reward: 'Incubi sta volta', graded 8b/b+. With time dwindling fast he hopped onto another project, but this still awaits a first ascent, for his ticket was booked and the ferry already in the port. He left heavy-hearted, but there’s no doubt he’ll be back, sooner or later…