Adam Ondra establishes Zvěřinec, new 9b+ in Czechia

On 20/11/2022 at Holštejn in the Moravian Karst in the Czech Republic Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Zvěřinec, a 9b+ he rates as 'the second hardest route of my life.'
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Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Zvěřinec 9b+ at Holštejn in the Czech Republic on 20/11/2022
Petr Chodura

Earlier today Adam Ondra established Zvěřinec at his home crag Holštejn in the Moravian Karst which he has described as "the second hardest route of my life." The hardest of course being Silence, the world's first 9c put up by Ondra at Flatanger in Norway in 2017.

Zvěřinec adds a different start to Perlorodka, Czechia's first 9a+ established in 2011 by Ondra, although retrospectively he feels 9b may well be more appropriate. The new start is circa 9a+ in its own right before reaching a rest and tackling the 8B+ boulder crux of Perlorodka, resulting in what Ondra has specified as a "hard 9b+.

Ondra worked the route in April and although he got close to the send, warm temperatures forced he to remain patient. He returned this autumn and after realtively poor conditions, finally got lucky today. He warmed up at home, drove quickly to the crag and redpointed the line first go, making optimal use of the excellent friction in 0°C temperatures.

Writing to planetmountain.com after the redpoint, the 29-year-old explained "It's quite a unique blend of power-endurance and bouldering power. It is about 25moves of power endurance on small holds, at first steep, then slightly overhanging and quite old-school, but super intense, non-stop. This section is probably 9a+ by itself. Then there is good undecling rest, followed by 6 sketchy moves into a better rest - splits and undercling, alternating with a sketchy kneebar). Then there's the 8B+ crux of around 10 moves, before climbing more easily to the top."

Ondra believes this most recent addition is of particular importance. Hopefully it will receive more attention than the Czech Republic's only other 9b+, Vasil Vasil, established by Ondra in 2013 and still unrepeated almost 10 years down the line.

ADAM ONDRA 9b - 9c
03/2010 Golpe de Estado, Siurana, Spain, repeat
02/2011 La Capella, Siurana, Spain. 9b, first ascent
03/2011 Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain. 9b, first ascent
04/2011 Chilam Balam, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. 9b, repeat
04/2011 La Planta de Shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. 9b, first ascent
10/2012 Change, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b+, first ascent
02/2013 Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain. 9b, repeat
02/2013 Dura Dura, Oliana, Spain. 9b+, first ascent
08/2013 Iron Curtain, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b, first ascent
08/2013 Move, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b, first ascent
12/2013 Vasil Vasil, Sloup, Czech Republic. 9b+, first ascent
02/2014 First Round First Minute, Margalef, Spain. 9b, repeat
11/2015 C.R.S., Mollans, France. 9b, first ascent
02/2016 Stoking the Fire, Santa Linya, Spain. 9b, repeat
10/2016 Robin Úd 9b, Alternativna stena, Slovakia, first ascent
02/2017 Mamichula, Oliana, Spain. 9b, first ascent
04/2017 Queen Line, Laghel - Arco, Italy, 9b, first ascent
04/2017 Lapsus, Andonno, Italy, 9b, first repeat
07/2017 Move Hard, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9b, first ascent
09/2017
 Silence, Flatanger / Hanshallaren, Norway. 9c, first ascent
11/2017 One Slap, Laghel - Arco, Italy, 9b, first repeat
01/2018 Eagle-4, St Léger, France, first ascent
07/2018 Disbelief, Acephale, Canada, 9b first ascent
02/2019 Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain, 9b repeat
11/2021 Erebor, Arco, Italy, 9b repeat
12/2021 Taurus, Byci Skala, Czech Republic, 9b first ascent
03/2022 Bomba, Arco, Italy, 9b first ascent
03/2022 Wonderland, Arco, Italy, 9b first ascent

Info: www.adamondra.comInstagram Adam OndraLa SportivaMammut




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