Home page Planetmountain.com
During the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca' Monte Qualido Est Face, Val di Mello
Photo by archivio Simone Manzi
Walking up to the East Face of Monte Qualido, Val di Mello
Photo by archivio Simone Manzi
During the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca' Monte Qualido Est Face, Val di Mello
Photo by archivio Simone Manzi
Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi, Andrea Mariani while making the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca' Monte Qualido Est Face, Val di Mello
Photo by archivio Simone Manzi

Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face

di

In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.

The Italian climbers Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani have established a new route on the huge East Face Qualido, high above Val di Mello in Northern Italy. Located to the right of Quote Rosa, it is described as "nothing amazing or super adventurous", but the 320m line of their Gran Diedro della Marocca nevertheless offers interesting climbing up to 6bm, first past weathered slabs, then up a beautiful corner system.

"The idea" explained Manzi "was to climb a route that was protected according to the current standards of the valley, but allowing for trad gear where possible." This equates into belays equipped with 8mm or 10mm stainless steel bolts, and some 8mm bolts along the pitches.

"We thought we’d need two or three days to finish the route" concluded Manzi “but as things turned out we managed to reach the summit that same day before descending quickly to dodge an oncoming storm!"

Share

NEWS / Related news:
Rock climbing in Val di Mello
24.06.2010
Rock climbing in Val di Mello
Luna Nascente, Mani di Fata, Oceano Irrazionale and Vedova Nera, four fantastic rock climbs in the beautiful Val di Mello, introduced by Andrea Gaddi.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
20.08.2015
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in Val di Mello, Italy. Riky Felderer, the climber and photographer who documented the first free ascent on 25-26/07/2015, provides the report.
Joy Division on Qualido, second ascent by James Pearson
14.11.2011
Joy Division on Qualido, second ascent by James Pearson
On 12 and 13 October 2011 James Pearson made the coveted second ascent of Joy Division (800m, 8b) on the Qualido, Val di Mello, Italy, one of the hardest granite multi-pitches in Europe.
Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello
21.09.2011
Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello
The video of the first winter ascent of Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, in Val di Mello (Val Masino) carried out by Daniele Bernasconi and Simone Pedeferri in February 2011.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria