Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face
In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.
The Italian climbers Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani have established a new route on the huge East Face Qualido, high above Val di Mello in Northern Italy. Located to the right of Quote Rosa, it is described as "nothing amazing or super adventurous", but the 320m line of their Gran Diedro della Marocca nevertheless offers interesting climbing up to 6bm, first past weathered slabs, then up a beautiful corner system.
"The idea" explained Manzi "was to climb a route that was protected according to the current standards of the valley, but allowing for trad gear where possible." This equates into belays equipped with 8mm or 10mm stainless steel bolts, and some 8mm bolts along the pitches.
"We thought we’d need two or three days to finish the route" concluded Manzi “but as things turned out we managed to reach the summit that same day before descending quickly to dodge an oncoming storm!"