Pelmo SW Direct repeat by Roverato and Matteraglia

On 1-2/07 Alessio Roverato and Luca Matteraglia repeated the Diretta alla parete Sud Ovest on Mt. Pelmo (Dolomites). First ascended in 1977 by Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee and Giovanni Groaz, the route had been repeated only once in 1986.

PlanetMountain

July 2006

Traduci in

A fortnight ago the two 22 year olds Alessio Roverato and Luca Matteraglia made a rare third ascent of Diretta Sud Ovest on Mt. Pelmo, Dolomites. The 650m route dates back to 1977 when Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee and Giovanni Groaz first explored a line up the exceptional yellow face, grading the route 6+ A3. The second ascent (and contemporarily the first winter ascent) dates back to 1986, when Flavio Appi and two Slovenians, Ronkovic and Rukic overcame the wall in a three day push from 15 - 17 January.

Miotto, who in 1977 was 45, knew the Dolomites like the back of his pocket. The line is testament to his exceptional intuition and route finding skills, and last weekend he returned, unbeknown to Roverato and to Matteraglia, to watch the duo make the third ascent. Roverato and Matteraglia climbed slowly but surely up the loose line and improvised a bivy 100m below the summit to top out safely on 2 July.

Pelmo Sud Ovest, Miotto, Bee, Groaz

THE ROUTE
Monte Pelmo (Dolomites)
SW Face
"DIRETTA SUD-OVEST"

F.A.: Franco Miotto, Riccardo Bee, Giovanni Groaz 1977

First repeat: Flavio Appi (Ita), Ronkovic and Rukic (Slo) 15-17/01/86

Second repeat: Alessio Roverato, Luca Matteraglia 1/2 July 2006

Length: 650m

Face: SW

Grade: VI+, A3

Pitches: P1 IV, P2 IV+, P3 IV, P4 V, P5 V+, Cengia di Grohman, P6 V+, P7 VI, P8 V+, A2, P9 VI+, A2, P10 V, A2, P11 A3, VI, P12 A2, VI, P13 VI, P14 A3, V+, P15 A2, VI+, P16 V+.

left: the line of ascent from the Grohman ledge

Pelmo Sud Ovest, Miotto, Bee, Groaz

FLASH INTERVIEW
by Vinicio Stefanello

Alessio, why this "forgotten route"
Because the first ascent was made by a great person

And...
Because you don't necessarily have to follow the flow to search for adventure

The most beautiful aspect of the SW Face?
The yellow wall... impressive and spectacular

And the bivvy...
A great experience, fundamental for the future.

What attracted you most about this ascent
The daring and incredible line.

What amazed you most?
What Miotto managed to do in 1977

You thoughts re the SW Face
Maximum concentration...

What's the rock like?
Not really very solid. At times it's a mystery how it remains in one piece.

The surprise meeting with Miotto after the ascent
A dream come true!