Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the North Face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.
Excellent conditions in the Julian Alps enabled Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi to climb a new route on Sunday 18 December up the impressive North Face of Cima Verde del Montasio (2661m), also referred to as Vert Montasio due to its steep, grassy slopes that plunge down the south face. When laden in snow these turn into death traps, but three days before the official start of winter the mountain was in extremely dry conditions. The previous week Mosetti had transported rubbish that had accumulated in a bivouac back down to valley, and during the helicopter flight he noticed that a drip had formed on the North Face. The three decided to inspect conditions during a quick one-day raid.
Having started from the head of Val Saisera, the ascended the 1000m elevation gain approach past the Stuparich hut, and reached the base of the route at the start of an obvious gully, directly below the summit of Cima Verde. A 200 meter snow gully up to 65° led to a grotto which paved the way for two ice pitches, 50m and 60m respectively. The trio reached a ledge below the remarkable overhangs and since the ice finished at this point, they made two rappels back down to the base of the climb.
Although the 350m route does not reach the summit, it is certainly an interesting addition to a substantial face that has only a handful of summer routes, on its extreme left and right. The new route is called Amici per sempre - Friends Forever - and is dedicated to the Leonardo Comelli who was killed on Laila Peak last June.
TOPO: Amici per sempre, Cima Verde del Montasio