Home page Planetmountain.com
Colin Haley on Jardines Japoneses (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1, Colin Haley, Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer 28/12/2010) Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
Photo by Mikey Schaefer
Jardines Japoneses (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1, Colin Haley, Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer 28/12/2010) Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
Photo by arch Colin Haley

Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia

di

American alpinists Colin Haley, Mikey Schaefer and Jens Holsten have established "Jardines Japoneses," (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1) on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia.

The wait in Patagonia has paid dividends for Colin Haley: after his first solo of the Exocet route on Cerro Standhardt, on December 28 he established "Jardines Japoneses," (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1) on Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy range together with fellow Americans Mikey Schaefer and Jens Holsten.

The trio climbed the obvious ice and mixed gully up the east face which Schaefer had spotted the previous year - and attempted unsuccessfully a few weeks ago. They joined the Argentine route on the north ridge and followed this to the summit, before abseiling off in very windy conditions and returning to Laguna de los Tres the same day.

Haley describes the route as having "...very enjoyable climbing, with all the good alpine ingredients: some ice climbing, some scrappy mixed climbing, some pendulums and makeshift aid climbing, and finally some rock climbing on excellent granite."

Furthermore, he believes the evident line is "a good addition to the range because it is climbable in conditions less-than-ideal for rock climbing (after you've climbed the Whillans on Poincenot, Amy on Guillaumet, Todo O Nada on Mocho and Exocet on Standhardt you start to run out of options for climbing in boots during mediocre weather)."

Last season Haley had soloed the Argentine Route (600m, 6a+, Héctor Cuiñas, Guillermo Vieiro and Fermín Olaechea, 1974) and the video of this ascent is published below.


Share

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Bastava un Piumino
    Dopo aver sentito che Andrea Simonini e Gianluca Bellamoli h ...
    2016-08-03 / Giuliana Steccanella
  • Bastava un Piumino
    Seconda ripetizione con Tommy Marchesini e Tommy Dezuani 30/ ...
    2016-08-01 / Michele Lucchini
  • Vento di passioni
    Leggo solo oggi la replica l mio commento sulla via Vento di ...
    2016-03-07 / oscar meloni
  • Vento di passioni
    Leggo solo ora: ripetuta da C. Migliorini ed A.Tocchini il 2 ...
    2016-02-11 / stefano michelazzi