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During the 2018 Ice climbing Festival at Erzurum, Turkey
Photo by archivio Anna Torretta
During the 2018 Ice climbing Festival at Erzurum, Turkey
Photo by archivio Anna Torretta
Anna Torretta and Jeff Mercier at the 2018 Ice climbing Festival at Erzurum, Turkey
Photo by Jeff Mercier
During the 2018 Ice climbing Festival at Erzurum, Turkey
Photo by archivio Anna Torretta

Erzurum and the Ice Climbing Festival in Turkey. The report by Anna Torretta

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Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga (WI4) dedicated to Olga Gorozhanina.

The 4th International Ice Climbing Festival in Erzurum, Turkey's only ice climbing fest, has just come to an end. The meeting takes place in Eastern Anatolia, on the border with Armenia in NE Turkey, where the city of Erzurum is an important international sports hub as well being home to a renowned university.

The Province and Municipality have believed in the area’s ice climbing potential and have consequently invested heavily in the meeting, inviting climbers from all parts of the world to raise awareness about the region and to underline Turkish hospitality.

The festival is for "famous" and “not famous” climbers alike and offers icefalls of all difficulties, from grade III to grade VI.

Ice climbing is currently a niche sport in Turkey and Cetin Bayram, the festival organiser and Jack-of-all-trades, deserves all praise. Unfortunately, due to global warming not many big drips formed this, meaning that the easier ones were literally assaulted by the highly motivated Turks.

This year the international guests included Spain’s Cecilia Buil, Mexico’s Ixchel Foord, French superstar Jeff Mercier, the Germans Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt, as well as mountaineers from Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, a “no big” group from Greece and myself.

During the meeting we managed to climb two new icefalls. The first, Cetin (WI5-, 25 m) was established solo by Jeff Mercier in the valley of Kirazli, the Valley of cherries, by climbing up on the left up a hanging drip, and I then climbed a line on the right. The second icefall is located circa 10 km from Usundere. It’s the closest of all, is called Olga (WI4 50 m) and is dedicated to Olga Gorozhanina. I made the first ascent with Alberto Barbieri, accompanied by the whole group of Turkish women.

To all those who reading this report: the festival is worth supporting, I recommend you do take part and next year you’re all invited to Erzurum in Turkey!

Jeff Mercier making the solo first ascent of Cetin


Link: FB Anna Torretta, GrivelGuide Alpine Courmayeur

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Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
03.02.2015
Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
From 21 to 25 January 2015, Turkey’s first-ever international ice climbing festival took place at Erzurum (Anatolia). Participants included Anna Torretta (a Mountain guide from Courmayeur) and Spain’s Cecilia Buil who made the first ascents of two beautiful icefalls: Anatolia Pillar, WI6 100m, in Cevizli valley and Sugar couloir (seker kulvari), WI5 450m in Kirazli valley. The report by Anna Torretta.

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Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
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