Home page Planetmountain.com
Zorbey Aktuyun climbing pitch 3 (8a+) of 'Nessuno', Vay Vay, Aladaglar, Turkey
Photo by Zorbey Aktuyun
Zorbey Aktuyun and Muammer Yalcın climbing pitch 4 (7a) of 'Nessuno', Vay Vay, Aladaglar, Turkey
Photo by Zorbey Aktuyun
The campsite of Zorbey Aktuyun and Muammer Yalcın and peak Vay Vay, Aladaglar, Turkey
Photo by Zorbey Aktuyun
Zorbey Aktuyun and Muammer Yalcın on the summit after having repeated 'Nessuno', Vay Vay, Aladaglar, Turkey
Photo by Zorbey Aktuyun

Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın

di

Zorbey Aktuyun reports about the first repeat of Nessuno (8a+, 470 m) carried out with Muammer Yalcın in the Aladaglar massif in Turkey.

Nessuno, established in 2012 by the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori, is the hardest alpine sports route in Turkey and it took us 27 hours to climb clean! The route is not only hard, at times it is also fairly dangerous and so high up in the mountains, literally it no mans land… It takes 10-12 hours just to walk there!

The route starts from the glacier, and now that glacier is circa 15 meter lower than when Nessuno was first ascended. Getting to the first bolt was quite an adventure ;-) On our first attempt it started to hail, and I failed to reach the belay on pitch 3. We waited for 4 days for the weather to improve and let the route dry  out, and while we waited we also climbed some new boulder problems close to the campsite.

When the good weather returned we set off once again. Pitch 3, the crux pitch, required five attempts to go free. On my fifth attempt I knew I stood no chance, but nevertheless I went for it and somehow managed to pull it off. We continued up… and onsighted all the remaining pitches. We bivouacked in the small grotto on the route which also contains the route book; a nice place to spend the night. The next day, 27 hours after leaving the ground, we reached the summit.

With this route I have now completed the three hardest multi-pitch alpine sport climbs in Turkey. This trilogy is comprised of Üç Muz 8a ,650m.(Demirkazık/Aladağlar) of which I made the second ascent, and Red, Moon and Star 8a 400m. (Kızılınbaşı/Aladaglar) of which I made the third ascent.

Nessuno, Nothing, is a really apt description of the Vay Vay mountain. We send our thanks and respect from here to the first ascenders.

by Zorbey Aktuyun

Thanks to: Arkas,Yüksekişler, Singing Rock, Brooklyn, Alchemist, Tenaya.

Share

NEWS / Related news:
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
12.10.2012
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
12.11.2010
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
15.09.2015
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
Maurizio Oviglia and Recep Ince recommend some new trad climbs in Pınarbaşı Canyon (Ala Daglar, Turkey).
Cani Randagi, new rock climb in Turkey's Ala Daglar
21.11.2013
Cani Randagi, new rock climb in Turkey's Ala Daglar
In June 2013 the Italians Jimmy Palermo, Tommaso Salvadori and Ivan Testori made the first ascent of Cani Randagi (300m, 6b max, 6a obl) in the Cimbar Valley, Aladaglar, Turkey. The route is dedicated to the late Don Andrea Gallo and Franca Rame, and the protests in Taksim square.
Tranga Tower, Ala Daglar: two new rock climbs in Turkey
07.11.2013
Tranga Tower, Ala Daglar: two new rock climbs in Turkey
In August Carlo Cosi, Enrico Geremia, Nicolò Geremia and Andrea Simonini climbed two new routes up the impressive West Face of Lower Guvercinlik (3000m), Aladaglar: Atomic Folder (600m, 7b+/c (1pA1), 7b obl, RS3) and Mostro Turco (650m, 8a (2pA1), 7b+obl, S3+).
Ala Daglar, climbing in Turkey through the eyes of Petit and Bodet
18.09.2012
Ala Daglar, climbing in Turkey through the eyes of Petit and Bodet
Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet recently climbed in the Ala Daglar massif in Turkey where they carried out, amongst others, the first repeat of Red moon and Star put up by Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi.
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
13.09.2013
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of Demirkazik, Ala Daglar, Turkey.
Kazikli Canyon, a sport climbing paradise in the Aladaglar, Turkey
16.01.2012
Kazikli Canyon, a sport climbing paradise in the Aladaglar, Turkey
Recep Ince introduces the Turkish delights of rock climbing at the Kazikli Canyon in the Ala Daglar region.
Cose Turche in Ala Daglar, new route by Bernasconi and Spini in Turkey
08.11.2011
Cose Turche in Ala Daglar, new route by Bernasconi and Spini in Turkey
Matteo Bernasconi and Davide Spini have established Cose Turche (300m 7a obligatory/8b?) up Kazilin Basi (2944m) in the Ala Daglar, Turkey.
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
15.05.2009
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.
Tempus fugit - Ala Daglar new route in Turkey
04.07.2007
Tempus fugit - Ala Daglar new route in Turkey
From 2 - 17 June Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Umberto Iavazzo and Massimo Sacchi made the first ascent of "Tempus fugit" 7b 700m on the S Face of Kizilin Baci 2944m, Turkey.
04.08.2005
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.) on the east face of Parmakkaya (2880m).

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria