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26.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič

Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

26.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Renan Ozturk: Obsessed or Devoted

The video portrait of American alpinist and artist Renan Ozturk.

25.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya

British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while Martin Moran and Ian Dring made the first ascent of peak Marakula Killa via their ‘Crocodile Rock’ (1300m, ED2, VI+)

25.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu

On 5 October 2016 Russia’s Valery Rozov leapt from a record-breaking altitude of 7700m off Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world.

25.10.2016 by Florian Riegler in Alpinism

Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites

Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.

25.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen

Last weekend the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 took place in Xiamen, China, won by Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. While Klaudia Buczek and Stanislav Kokorin won the final stage of the Speed World Cup, overall season victory went to the Poles Iuliia Kaplina and Marcin Dzienski.

24.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem

Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.

24.10.2016 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

British first ascents in South Georgia

On the remote island of South Georgia (Southern Atlantic Ocean) Stephen Venables, Skip Novak, Crag Jones, Henry Chaplin, David Lund and Simon Richardson climbed 8 mountains, including the first ascent of the spectacular Starbuck peak and the remote and difficult Mount Baume, one of the highest unclimbed peaks on the island.

24.10.2016 by Francesco Salvaterra in Alpinism

Brenta Dolomites: new rock climb up Cima Tosa

On Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites (Italy) Paolo Baroldi, Filippo Mosca and Francesco Salvaterra have established Pilastro Nord, a new 700m rock climb that completes and attempt carried out in 1981 by Gianni Giudicati and Piercarlo Berta.

23.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #1

Update about Adam Ondra and his recent progress on the 'Dawn Wall', the immensely difficult big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.

22.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Books-press

Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography

German photographer Lorenz Holder has won one of the most prestigious photographic competitions in the world for “action & adventure”, namely the Red Bull Illume 2016. All the winning photos.

21.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview

Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).

21.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Chris Sharma repeats Joe Mama 9a+ at Oliana

The video of American climber Chris Sharma repeating Joe Mama, a 9a+ sports climb freed by Klemen Bečan at Oliana in Spain.

20.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes

German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu (2518m) in Spain.

20.10.2016 by Francesco Tremolada in Climbing

Jeo, new rock climb in the Sella Dolomites

On the East Face of Col de Stagn (Sella group, Dolomites) Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada have made the first ascent of 'Jeo' (7a max, 6b+ obligatory, 185m).

19.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite

During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.

19.10.2016 by Nathalie Bini in Environment

The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme

Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.

19.10.2016 by Rolando Larcher in Climbing

Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher

Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show to someone of the "indoor climbing generation" the origins of sport climbing which in the early 1980’s attempted, through trials and also "errors", to find its way.

18.10.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Question madness

The video 'Question madness' with which The North Face celebrates its 50th anniversary. An invitation to question what kind of madness drives us to constantly explore our limits and consider what renders us truly happy and free.

18.10.2016 by Maurizio Oviglia in Climbing

Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth

Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.




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