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21.01.2017 by Chiara Florit in Alpinism

Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul

On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great alpinist and intellectual. Chiara Florit remembers Spiro who, on 21 February, would have celebrated his 100th birthday.

20.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2017, live streaming from Saas Fee

Live streaming from Saas Fee in Switzerland of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017. The Speed Finals stream at 19:30 this evening, the Lead Semis and Finals throughout Saturday.

20.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dolomites drytooling: Dariusz Sokołowski traces A Line Above The Sky

In December 2016 Poland’s Dariusz Sokołowski repeated A Line Above The Sky, one of the most difficult drytooling climbs in the world, freed at Tomorrow's World in the Dolomites by Britain’s Tom Ballard in 2016.

20.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Isabelle Faus climbing The Wheel of Chaos 8B+ at Rocky Mountain National Park

Bouldering video: Isabelle Faus climbing The Wheel of Chaos 8B+ at Rocky Mountain National Park, USA.

19.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter trilogy by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini

Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).

18.01.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer

South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.

17.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós

On 04/01/2017 Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós made what is likely to be the first ascent of La Pissa (WI6, M9?, 105m), the obvious icefall at Termine di Cadore, Dolomites.

16.01.2017 by Maurizio Panseri in Alpinism

Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps

Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.

15.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Vertical Ethiopia, the Ragni di Lecco climbing trip to the Horn of Africa

The video of the climbing trip to Ethiopia by Luca Schiera, Matteo Colico, Andrea Migliano and Matteo De Zaiacomo.

14.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Ghisolfi and Pietro Biagini climb hard at Margalef and Varazze

Sport climbing: at Margalef in Spain Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated 'First Ley' 9a+, while at Varazze in Italy Pietro Biagini has climbed 'Alphacentauri sit', his first 8B boulder problem.

13.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Russians win it big in Beijing

Last weekend the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Beijing, China; Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead event, wile the Speed event was won by their teammates Radomir Proshchenko and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

13.01.2017 by Luca Godenzi in Alpinism

Piz Badile Cassin route climbed in winter by Luca Godenzi and Carlo Micheli

Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.

12.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kyle Maynard - an inspiration on the summit of Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua

The video of America’s Kyle Maynard who, despite his congenital amputation, climbed to the summit of Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua.

12.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites

Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).

11.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Kyzyl Asker, the short film of Ines Papert and Luka Lindič in Kyrgyzstan

The short film of Luka Lindič e Ines Papert and their first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

11.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec

In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the North Face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian Alps.

10.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc

Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.

10.01.2017 by Luca Vallata in Alpinism

La Bruixa, new ice climb in Val Zemola, Dolomites

Luca Vallata reports about the first ascent of La Bruixa, a new icefall in Val Zemola, Dolomites, climbed on 05/01/2017 together with Santiago Padrós.

09.01.2017 by Thomas Huber in Alpinism

Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and, despite attempts, had been unrepeated. Thomas Huber provides the report.

08.01.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Ghisolfi 8c onsight and Laura Rogora 8c+ redpoint at Oliana

Sport climbing: at Oliana in Spain Italy’s Laura Rogora has redpointed Joe Blau 8c+, while Stefano Ghisolfi has onsighted the 8c Fish Eye.

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