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24.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Rock Master Festival 2016: Lead World Cup and Arco Rock Legends on Friday

Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the KO Boulder Contest and the 30th Rock Master Trophy. To cap it all, the Arco Rock Legends sport climbing Oscars are scheduled for Friday night.

23.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel

Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.

23.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Edu Marin repeats Wogü in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif

Spanish sports climber Edu Marin has carried out the first repeat of Wogü, the 8c multi-pitch sports climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed by Adam Ondra in the Rätikon massif, Switzerland.

22.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mont Blanc, Ueli Steck raids the Innominata Ridge

On 16/08/2016 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck raced up the Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) to the summit of Mont Blanc. Not to set a speed record, but to enjoy 'a great day out in the mountains.'

22.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dolomites: gigantic rockfall off Kleine Gaisl

The video of mountain guide Roman Valentini documenting the enormous rockfall that took place last week on Kleine Gaisl (Piccola Croda Rossa), in the Braies group of the Italian Dolomites

22.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

Arco Rock Legends: Climbing Ambassador 2016 awarded to the IFSC

On 26 August 2016 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2016 prize will be awarded to the International Federation of Sport Climbing for the inclusion of sport climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Maria Scolaris, president of the IFSC since 2001, will receive the award on behalf of the federation.

21.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The need to hammer in some pegs, to get lost in order to find yourself. By Giovanni Zaccaria

Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.

20.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Lead World Cup 2016 - Imst live

On Saturday 20 August 2016 at 19:30 in Imst, Austria, the finals of the fourth stage of the Lead World Cup 2016.

19.08.2016 by Nicolas Favresse in Alpinism

Baffin big wall climbing: the final concert

The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the recent two-month climbing trip to Baffin Island, together with Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera that resulted in a series of new, long and difficult trad routes.

19.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos flashes The Path at Lake Louise in Canada

The German climber Alexander Megos has made an impressive flash ascent of The Path at Lake Louise in Canada. This extremely difficult trad climb was freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2007 and is graded 5.14 (8b+).

18.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016

On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll wall and the first ascent of via Degli studenti up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) by the Italians Giorgio Travaglia, Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth.

18.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Sport climbing at the Olympics: interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris

Interview with Marco Scolaris (President of the International Federation of Sport Climbing - IFSC) after the historic inclusion of sport climbing competitions in the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games.

17.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Carnati climbs 9a at Céüse and Entraygues in France

During a few short trips to France, Italy’s Stefano Carnati repeated Condè de Choc 9a at Entraygues in the Briançon region and Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a at Ceuse.

17.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016

On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by Vinicio Stefanello of planetmountain.com.

16.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos frees Fightclub, Canada's hardest sport climb

At Ravens Crag cliff in Canada German climber Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Fightclub. Graded 9b, this is the hardest sport climb in the country.

15.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alex Honnold, the video

The video profile of American alpinist and climber Alex Honnold, filmed by the American actor and film director Jared Leto.

14.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Laura Rogora waltzes up Wallstreet in Frankenjura

Laura Rogora has climbed Wallstreet, the historic world’s first 8c freed in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura.

13.08.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Bouldering World Cup 2016: showdown in Munich

The last stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016 started yesterday with the qualifiers. Live streaming today of the semi-finals (11:30) and finals (18:30).

12.08.2016 by Caroline Ciavaldini in Climbing

Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese

In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.

11.08.2016 by Steve House in Alpinism

Steve House / knowing yourself

American alpinist Steve House shares his thoughts about how failing wisely provides interior growth. Originally posted only on facebook, House has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.




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