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| Mont Blanc - the best granite in Europe |
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| text and photographs by Roberto Rossi |
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Climbing on Mont Blanc's granite walls is an exceptional experience, unique in its kind. The splendour of the glacier deep below, the breathtaking panorama and the sharp reflection of the light reflecting off the snow cleans the mind while the fresh, thin air clears the spirit and the altitude inexorably tires the body. These are the sensations I encounter every time I return to the "satellites" to climb the steep granite faces, worn smooth by the elements and thousands of years of glacial erosion.
| ITINERARY |
GRADE |
BEAUTY |
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| 1. Bettembourg - Thivierge |
TD+, 6b max |
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| 2. Contamine |
TD+, 6a+ max. |
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| 3. Eau et gaz à toutes les étages |
ED+, 7c max. |
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| 4. Elixier d’Astaroth |
ED+, 7a+ max, A2 |
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| 5. Empire State Building |
ED+, 7c max |
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| 6. Gervasutti |
TD+, 6a+ max |
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| 7. Indurain tiene dos huevos |
ED, 7a max |
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| 8. Le Fou de l’Aiguille |
ABO-, 7b max |
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| 9. Les Intouchables |
ABO-, 7c+ max |
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| 10. Ligne Blanche |
ED, 7a+ max |
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| 11. Rébuffat |
TD+, 6A max. |
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| 12. Rébuffat |
D+, 6a max |
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| 13. Salluard |
TD-, 5+ max |
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| 14. Via degli Svizzeri |
ED-, 7b max. |
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| 15. Voyage selon Gulliver |
ED, 7a+ max |
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Immense corners and cracks, thin fissures and micro-edges – all those who have climbed on this incredible rock have immediately become addicted. All other climbs suddenly become mere training routes for the next trip back to the most beautiful granite in Europe!
But beware, because this is an alpine environment! The approach crosses a glacier and the weather can deteriorate severely from one moment to the next. Proper gear and clothing is indispensable therefore, as is a watchful eye on the weather and the forecast. Furthermore, all routes described here are trad routes and are therefore protected with natural gear.
Many thanks to Ferrino and Montura for providing the equipment and happy and safe climbing! |
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The routes
