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| Torre Brunico - Via Ottovolante First Ascent: F. Piardi, M. Moretti, F. Tremolada, C. Zampieri, 20/06/97 Grade: 6c/Ao (6b obligatory) Length: 450m, 11 pitches Time required: 5/6 hours Orientation: north Gear: 12 quickdraws, some small wires & friends for the first pitch Getting there From the Passo Gardena, which can be reached either from the Val Gardena or the Val di Fassa, descend towards Corvara and leave the car after a few hairpin turns in a large parking lot from where the Via Ferrata Tridentina starts. Follow the path for the Val Setus for 10 mins and then a track leftwards for the Via Ferrata. Before reaching two evident boulders walk up the scree towards the Torre, heading towards the large crack in the center of the face. The base of the route is on a pocketed slab, to the right of the crack (indicated by a pile of stones). The route: The route works its way up the face close to the arete (via Dalla Palma). Bolts (10mm) were placed on lead and eventhough a rack isn't necessary, some small wires may be found usefull. Belays are generally very good because of the numerous ledges which break up this face. The climbing is both technical and athletic, on excellent rock. Descent: From the summit scramble quickly to the Sella plateau, then walk southwards to reach the path which leads to the refuge and the Val Setus. Alternatively, descend by abseil (two 60m ropes). Gear: A 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, some small wires & friends for the first pitch |
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| Introduction Topo Photo |
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| The Torre Brunico from Passo Gardena | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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A click of the mouse on the left icon to download the Pdf version (italian). You can see the file using Acrobat Reader from Adobe. |
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