Climbing in the Dolomites - Sass di Stria - PlanetMountain.com


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The Sass di Stria, a minor peak within the Fanis group, is famous for its popular Spigolo Sud, an easy arête clearly visible from the nearby Passo Falzarego.

The base of its east face is weathered and slabby and hence ideal for beginners. Some routes were equipped long ago for the military "Alpini", but in 1996 a group of aspiring Mountain Guides bolted the entire wall, thereby creating one of the Dolomites', and Italy's, easiest crags

Getting there
Passo Falzarego is reached easily from Cortina, Livinallongo or Caprile. Continue towards Passo Valparola to a car park on the left near a large boulder. A path leads downhill to the wall, clearly visible from the road.

Best time of year
Summer.
The wall, situated at 2000m, faces east and receives the morning sun.

Rock and gear
The rock is slabby and weathered and becomes steeper and more compact next to "sasso scuola".

All routes have either 10mm bolts or resin bolts and an abseil chain. Two routes have a second pitch. Take a set of quickdraws and a 50m rope.

About 40m to the left of the crag there are 4 routes (III-IV) that are not bolted but which have a belay.

above: Sass di Stria - climbing at 2000m in the afternoon shade

Access map and topo

The routes (from left to right):

1 S.N. 4a
2 FRIENDS 4a
3 NUTS 4a
4 OSSO DI BANANA 5a
5 BLACK RAIN 5a-4c
6 TOTEM 5b
7 BLOWING IN THE WIND 5c
8 BOZANO 4b
9 WILLY COYOTE 5a
10 BIP BIP 5b
11 NURAJEV 5a
12 INCAS 4b
13 BILANCIAMENTO 4a
14 SUPER TROMBETTA 6a
15 MANO MORTA 4b
16 WELCOME IN PADANIA 4a
17 GATTO VECIO 5a
18 SEMI DI PAPAVERO 5b
19 NON STRINGERE 5b
20 PAMIR 5b
21 SFIGOI 6a
22 SACRIPANTE 5b
23 PROGRESSIONE FONDAMENTALE 5b
24 SON COTTO 6a-5c
25 RIOBY 6a
26 CITRULLINA 5b
27 NUVOLARI 4a
(21-27 have no names at the start)