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| (based on Luisa Iovane's article) The first of the three World Cup events took place in the Aosta valley this September on one of the largest indoor walls in Europe. 130 climbers turned up to compete, the unluckiest being the Italian Davide Zavagnin who, having misjudged his own height, bumped his head on an overlap and fell low down on the Open route. The next day, to make up for his mistake, he onsighted an 8b at Sarre! The women were asked to climb two routes on the same day - a physical and psychological challenge to say the least. Some spent over 10 hours in isolation and the last competitor started at 23.30 pm! Nine women qualified for the final, including the highly experienced Luisa Iovane. Ovtchinnikova, Sarkany and Sansoz all reached the chain in the Final, but Sansoz eventually claimed victory for her own in a thrilling Superfinal through the overhangs. The men's Final breached the steepest part of the wall and Zardini, having nothing to lose after his finger injury, breezed into third place. Hirayama came second, but the real battle was felt to be between Brenna and Legrand. A sharp boulder problem put an end to the Frenchman's hopes and the Italian fought his way convincingly into first place. Brenna is the first Italian male to have won a World Cup title (Luisa Iovane won way back in 1989) and the celebrations, until four the next morning, were wild. |
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| Write-up Portfolio |
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