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  • 05.02.2016 Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites

    Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites

    British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.

  • 04.02.2016 Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

    Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

    From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.

  • 03.02.2016 Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.

  • 02.02.2016 Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria

    Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria

    The Eispark Osttirol, a new ice climbing crag with approximately 50 artificial icefalls, has been inaugurated close to the Matreier Tauernhaus in East Tirol, Austria.

    Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
    05.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites

    British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.

    Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
    04.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

    From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
    03.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

    Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.

    Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria
    02.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria

    The Eispark Osttirol, a new ice climbing crag with approximately 50 artificial icefalls, has been inaugurated close to the Matreier Tauernhaus in East Tirol, Austria.

    Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
    01.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

    Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016

    The final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place last weekend at Rabenstein - Corvara in Italy. After four competitions, both the Lead and Speed World Cups were won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov. Lead stage victory went ot Janez Svoljšak from Slovenia and Han Na Rai Song from Korea, while the fastest Speed climbers were Radomir Proshchenko and Tolokonina. Corvara also awarded the European Championship title, won by Svoljšak and Switzerland's Petra Klingler (Lead) and by Proshchenko and Tolokonina (Speed).

    Ice Climbing World Cup at Rabenstein - live streaming
    30.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

    Ice Climbing World Cup at Rabenstein - live streaming

    The final stage of the Ice Climbing world Cup 2016 began this morning at Rabenstein, Italy.

    Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be
    29.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be

    Ermanno Salvaterra documents the climbing and Patagonia in1993-94 in this video, Fuiste Alpiste, recently updated with names of the climbers of those unforgettable six months spent, more than twenty years ago, at the base camp of Cerro Torre.

    Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
    28.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy

    On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.

    Adiós Iñaki Coussirat
    28.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Adiós Iñaki Coussirat

    On 21/01/2015 Inaki Coussirat died while climbing Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia. Marcello Cominetti remembers the promising young Argentine alpinist.

    Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
    27.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

    Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report

    The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.

    Video: David Lama and Conrad Anker attempt Lunag Ri
    26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Video: David Lama and Conrad Anker attempt Lunag Ri

    The video of the attempt by David Lama and Conrad Anker to climb Lunag Ri, a 6907m high mountain located on the border between Nepal and Tibet.

    Ice Climbing World Cup: Russians take gold in Saas Fee
    26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

    Ice Climbing World Cup: Russians take gold in Saas Fee

    The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place in Saas Fee, Switzerland from 22 - 23 January 2016. Russians Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead discipline, while Speed was won by teammates Nikolei Kuzovlev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

    Piolets d'Or 2016 moves to La Grave-La Meije
    26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Piolets d'Or 2016 moves to La Grave-La Meije

    The press release of the 24th edition of the prestigious international mountaineering award Piolet d’Or that will be celebrated from 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave-La Meije, France.

    Mont Blanc on Google Street View
    23.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mont Blanc on Google Street View

    Google has published a Street View exploration of the Mont Blanc, produced together with Kilian Jornet Burgada, Catherine Destivelle, Patrick Gabarrou, Corrado Korra Pesce, Laetitia Roux, Ueli Steck, Candide Thovex and photographers Jonathan Griffith, Renan Ozturk, Sender Films.

    Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci
    22.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci

    On 19 January 2016 the Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci made the first repeat of Via dei Ragni up the East Pillar of Fitz Roy, established in 1976 by Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles.

    Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
    22.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia

    Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.

    Trekking Peaks in Nepal's Khumbu Himal
    19.01.2016 by Rudy Buccella in Alpinism

    Trekking Peaks in Nepal's Khumbu Himal

    Italian Mountain Guide Rudy Buccella discusses his recent trip to the Trekking Peaks of Nepal. To remind us, even in this post-earthquake period, of how beautiful these mountains are and how much help the Nepalese people direly need.

    La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
    18.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth

    From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by the Czech brothers Miroslav Coubal and Michal Coubal.

    Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
    15.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites

    British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.

    Loretan and Georges' Imperial Crown, merely the thought inspires
    15.01.2016 by Ivo Ferrari in Alpinism

    Loretan and Georges' Imperial Crown, merely the thought inspires

    In the footsteps of Erhard Loretan and André Georges and their Imperial Crown, the great winter enchainment of 38 peaks in Switzerland’s Valais Alps, of which 30 are over 4000 meters, completed in 1986. By Ivo Ferrari.

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