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  • 27.01.2015 Piolets d'Or 2015: Chris Bonington to receive Lifetime Achievement Award

    Piolets d'Or 2015: Chris Bonington to receive Lifetime Achievement Award

    From 9 - 12 April 2015 Courmayeur and Chamonix become the world’s mountaineering capital with the 23 edition of the Piolets d’Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award. Britain’s Sir Chris Bonington will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - the Lifetime Achievement Award.

  • 26.01.2015 Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee

    Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee

    Italy’s Angelika Rainer reconfirms her form by winning, for the fifth time ever, the Saas Fee stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland; absolute domination on behalf of Russia’s Maxim Tomilov with three consecutive victories.

  • 25.01.2015 Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia

    Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia

    From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Travesia del Oso Buda, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.

  • 23.01.2015 Meru at the Sundance Film Festival

    Meru at the Sundance Film Festival

    This evening Meru will première at the Sundance Film Festival. The film documents the first ascent of Shark's Fin up the NW face of Meru (6310), Himalaya, carried out in 2011 by American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk.

    Piolets d'Or 2015: Chris Bonington to receive Lifetime Achievement Award
    27.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Piolets d'Or 2015: Chris Bonington to receive Lifetime Achievement Award

    From 9 - 12 April 2015 Courmayeur and Chamonix become the world’s mountaineering capital with the 23 edition of the Piolets d’Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award. Britain’s Sir Chris Bonington will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - the Lifetime Achievement Award.

    Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee
    26.01.2015 by Marco Servalli in Competitions

    Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee

    Italy’s Angelika Rainer reconfirms her form by winning, for the fifth time ever, the Saas Fee stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland; absolute domination on behalf of Russia’s Maxim Tomilov with three consecutive victories.

    Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
    25.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia

    From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Travesia del Oso Buda, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.

    Meru at the Sundance Film Festival
    23.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Meru at the Sundance Film Festival

    This evening Meru will première at the Sundance Film Festival. The film documents the first ascent of Shark's Fin up the NW face of Meru (6310), Himalaya, carried out in 2011 by American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk.

    Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson make onsight first ascent of The Greatest Show On Earth in Scotland
    22.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson make onsight first ascent of The Greatest Show On Earth in Scotland

    On 19 January 2014 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent, onsight, of The Greatest Show On Earth, a six pitch outing on Cul Mor in Scotland. If the grade is confirmed, this is quite possibly the first onsight ascent of a grade X/10 winter climb in Britain.

    Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project
    21.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project

    British mountaineer Tom Ballard, as part of his project Starlight and Storm to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, has recently climbed the Comici - Dimai route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and the Cassin route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

    Triglav and Travnik, important winter ascents in Slovenia by Mrak, Vukotič and Marčič
    20.01.2015 by Matevž Mrak in Alpinism

    Triglav and Travnik, important winter ascents in Slovenia by Mrak, Vukotič and Marčič

    From  23 - 26 December young Slovenian alpinists Matevž Mrak (23) and Matevž Vukotič (24) made the second winter ascent, and first ever from the base of the face, of one of Slovenia’s most famous routes, Obraz Sfinge on the North Face of Triglav. They did so by climbing the Prusik - Szalay route, for an outing graded VI, M6+ R, AI4, VII- A1 (1000m, 1600m total length ). On 10 January 2015 Mrak, Vukotič and Nejc Marčič (29) made the second winter ascent of the Sveča route (VII- M, 800m) on Travnik in an 18-hour push. Matevž Mrak provides the details.

    Effimera, Matteo Bernasconi's Pizzo Badile dream
    20.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Effimera, Matteo Bernasconi's Pizzo Badile dream

    The short film directed by Riky Felderer about Matteo Bernasconi and his desire to make the first ascent of a new mixed route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

     Nanga Parbat in winter, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol return to Base Camp after reaching 7800m
    19.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Nanga Parbat in winter, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol return to Base Camp after reaching 7800m

    News just in: France’s Elisabeth Revol and Poland’s Tomasz Mackiewicz have returned to base camp of Nanga Parbat after reaching 7800m during their attempt to make the first winter ascent of this 8126m giant in the Karakorum. This historic feat on the 9th highest mountain in the world is also being attempted by several other expeditions: on the Diamir side the Italians Daniele Nardi and Roberto Delle Monache, on the Rupal Face the Russians Serguey Kondrashkin, Victor Koval, Valery Shamalo and Nickolay Totmjanin. In addition, they will shortly be joined by Spaniard Alex Txikon, the Pakistanis Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Khan and an Iranian expedition.

    Angelika Rainer and the Ouray Ice Festival
    16.01.2015 by Angelika Rainer in Climbing

    Angelika Rainer and the Ouray Ice Festival

    The report by Angelika Rainer about the Ouray Ice Festival, the ice climbing meeting andthe competition that took place from 8 - 11 January, won by Italian ice climber and Canada’s Will Gadd

    A line, the attempt up the West Ridge of lllimani
    13.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    A line, the attempt up the West Ridge of lllimani

    The documentary of Marco Erbetta, Enrico Rosso and Padre Antonio Zavattarelli attempting to climb the West Ridge of llimani, Cordillera Real, Andes, Bolivia.

    Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: HanNaRai Song and Maxim Tomilov win in Cheongsong
    13.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Competitions

    Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: HanNaRai Song and Maxim Tomilov win in Cheongsong

    The second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2015 took place at Cheongsong, Korea and was won by HanNaRai Song and Maxim Tomilov from Russia.

    Dlacion de Frea, new ice and mixed climb on Sella Dolomites
    12.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Dlacion de Frea, new ice and mixed climb on Sella Dolomites

    At the end of December and at the start of January Lukas Runggaldier, Alex Peristi and Willi Comploi made the first ascent of Dlacion de Frea (WI6 / M6, 110m), a new ice and mixed climb in the Sella group, Dolomites.

    Fitz Roy traverse. The video of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold in Patagonia
    09.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Fitz Roy traverse. The video of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold in Patagonia

    The video of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold and the historic first traverse of the major ridge line of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

     Ice Climbing Ecrins, 25th meeting at Argentière - La Bessée
    09.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Events

    Ice Climbing Ecrins, 25th meeting at Argentière - La Bessée

    From 15 - 18 January 2015 Argentière - La Bessée (France) will host Ice Climbing Ecrins, the classic international ice climbing meeting that celebrates its XXV edition.

    Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai
    07.01.2015 by Matteo Rivadossi in Alpinism

    Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai

    On December 28, 2014 at the drytooling crag Bus del Quai, Iseo, French climber Jeff Mercier made the first ascent of Low G Man, a combination of three existing drytooling routes. Graded D14 this is now the hardest total dry climb in the country. The report by Matteo Rivadossi.

    Water Resistant, new ice climb in Valle di Trona
    07.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Water Resistant, new ice climb in Valle di Trona

    On 03/01/2015 Cristian Candiotto, Riccardo Coppa and Carlo Ravelli climbed the icefall Water Resistant (II/4+5, 300m), a probable new first ascent in Valle di Trona, Lombardy, Italy.

    Markus Pucher solos Cerro Torre in raging storm
    01.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Markus Pucher solos Cerro Torre in raging storm

    A year after his fast solo ascent of the Ragni route on Cerro Torre,the Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher has now soloed the classic west face route again, this time through a raging storm.

    Exo-Ciuc!, new ice climb in Valgrisenche by Bonino and Parru
    31.12.2014 by Enrico Bonino in Alpinism

    Exo-Ciuc!, new ice climb in Valgrisenche by Bonino and Parru

    On 25/12/2014 Enrico Bonino and Tiziana Parru made the first ascent of Exo-Ciuc! (70m, WI5/II) a new icefall at Valgrisenche (Valle d'Aosta, Saxe Savoie). The report by Enrico Bonino

    Simon Gietl and Adam Holzknecht make first winter ascent of Wüstenblume, Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites
    29.12.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Simon Gietl and Adam Holzknecht make first winter ascent of Wüstenblume, Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites

    On 22 and 23 December 2014 the South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Adam Holzknecht made the first winter ascent of Wüstenblume, Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites.

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