(by Nicholas Hobley)

Ortisei, Summer

In this picturesque little town in the heart of the Dolomites the mountain guides have decided to stage their first climbing competition. The anxious crowd, packed tightly into the main square, watches excitedly as one climber after the next drops off the overhanging wall until, finally, the "local hero" steps out of isolation. The loudspeaker booms and a great cheer of appreciation follows. Acknowledging the applause, the 24 year old ties his knot and, showing little signs of pressure, calmly sets off up the semi-final. Too calmly though, for this 8a+ is packed into 10 vicious meters and requires explosive power, not unending stamina. The outcome is painfully predictable and he too, like the others before him, ends up dangling from the rope, far too soon. He waves briefly, hiding his disappointment, slips into the crowd and disappears.
Just a few days later though, alone beneath the massive Sella group, he makes the first ascent of Trick & Track, adding the mythical 8c grade to the Dolomites. The record has been put straight, his expectations satisfied. This is typical of this quiet, unassuming young South Tyrolean. Called Manfred Stuffer.

Hard routes are what Manfred specialises in, and his list of repeated routes in Italy, Austria, Spain, France and Australia is truly impressive. The highlight so far has been the 3rd ascent of Alexander Huber's Gambit 8c+ in August 1995. But performances like these don't just come from nowhere. Who is Manfred, and why have we heard so little of him?

Born in Ortisei beneath the towering Sasso Lungo, the imposing Sella group, and the sharp Geisler Spitzen, it is easy to see why Manfred was drawn to climbing at an early age. He served his apprenticeship in these mountains, repeating many of the classic traditional routes, but soon the focus shifted to smooth, steep walls where the grade, not the summit, is what counts. Naturally gifted, his rise to the top was rapid but, unlike some of his contemporaries, almost unnoticed. Until his repeat of Gambit in August 1996. Then the climbing press woke up and took note.