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    Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
    18.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Events

    Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy

    The short report of the first Orcoblocco, the bouldering meeting that took place at Ceresole Reale, in Valle dell' Orco (NE Italy) from 12 to 14 September 2014.

    Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
    18.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein

    Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most famous bouldering areas in the USA.

    Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
    17.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia

    This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris Warner.

    Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland
    16.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland

    Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè recount how Kalymnos appears towards the end of summer 2014. An island seemingly made for all the climbers in the world

    Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
    16.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites

    On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.

    Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
    15.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger

    This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.

    Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
    15.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites

    Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.

    Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!
    14.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

    Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!

    This evening at Gijón in Spain Adam Ondra and Jain Kim won the Lead World Championship 2014. Silver was won by Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Mina Markovic, bronze by Sachi Amma e Magdalena Röck. Speed was won by Danyl Boldyrev and Alina Gaidamakina, while Urko Carmona Barandiaran and Christa Brelsford, Mathieu Besnard and Elodie Orbaen, Koichiro Kobayashi and Alessia Refolo, and András Szijártó won their respective categories of the Paraclimbing World Championships.

    Anak Verhoven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup
    12.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Anak Verhoven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup

    Belgian climber Anak Verhoven has redpointed Ultimate Sacrifice 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup, France.

    GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone
    12.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Events

    GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone

    The 'GraMitico' bouldering meeting will take place in Valle di Daone (Italy) from 13 - 14 September 2014

    Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
    12.09.2014 by Molveno Holiday in Alpinism

    Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites

    The final dispatch of the Discover Brenta Dolomites project that organised a series of events by Molveno Holiday, APT Dolomiti Paganella and the municipality of Molveno to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites.

    Alexander Megos locates Geocache in the Frankenjura
    11.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Alexander Megos locates Geocache in the Frankenjura

    On 10/09/2014 Germany's Frankenjura Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Geocache, repeated Action Directe 9a and climbed Sundance Kid 9a.

    Climbing at Frea, Dolomites
    11.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Climbing at Frea, Dolomites

    The historic crag Frea, just below the Gardena Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Part 5 of the series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info.

    Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
    10.09.2014 by Alessandro Beber in Alpinism

    Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso

    The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first ascent of Via Attraverso il Tempo (420m, VIII) up the SW Face of Campanile Basso, a new route climbed in August 2014 together with Alessandro Baù and Matteo Faletti.

    Nalle Hukkataival climbs difficult new Grampians boulders
    10.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Nalle Hukkataival climbs difficult new Grampians boulders

    In the Grampians, Australia, Nalle Hukkataival has climbed a series of difficult new boulder problems including Road Sweet Home (V15).

    Condemned? Alpinism, alpinists and the love for the mountains. By Ivo Ferrari
    10.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Condemned? Alpinism, alpinists and the love for the mountains. By Ivo Ferrari

    A passion, even alpinism and climbing, requires a lot, at times even too much. Is it really necessary? Perhaps it is, because even the happiness that stems from alpinism and climbing has another side of the coin, that must be recognised and accepted so that it can be "governed". It's our love, and perhaps we're condemned to keep it, beyond the good and evil. Here's how Ivo Ferarri tells us of his "condemnation".

    British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
    09.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson

    At Pembroke in Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Mercia Wall E8, Yuji Hirayama has climbed The Big Issue E9 while James Pearson has made a flash ascent of Something's Burning E9. Caroline Ciavaldini talks us through these three difficult trad climbs.

    Greenland 2014: Baffin Island and Sam Ford Fjord for Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
    08.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Greenland 2014: Baffin Island and Sam Ford Fjord for Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva

    The second dispatch from Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva about their Greenland 2014 expedition.

    European Boulder Youth Championships: all the results
    07.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

    European Boulder Youth Championships: all the results

    The European Boulder Youth Championships 2014 concluded today at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Youth B was won by Slovenia's Janja Garnbret and Matic Kotar. Youth A was won by Austria's Franziska Sterrerand Switzerland's Baptiste Ometz. The Juniors category was won by Austria's Jessica Pilz and Germany's David Firnenburg.

    Sir Chris Bonington and the video of The Old Man of Hoy
    07.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

    Sir Chris Bonington and the video of The Old Man of Hoy

    The video of legendary British alpinist Sir Chris Bonington talking about the meaning of his recent climb, The Old Man of Hoy aged 80.

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