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| Accommodation and transport One of Cuba’s charms is its people. The quickest way to meet them is stay in the homes of Cubans who rent rooms in their homes. These are called “casas particulares,” and almost any casa particular is better than the hotels, which are either state enterprises or run by state employees. Staying in a casa particular in Cuba is not the same as a bed and breakfast elsewhere. Cubans are accustomed to large family settings and share whatever they have with family, friends, and neighbours. When you are their guest, they seem naturally to accept you as another family member or neighbour. Getting to Viñales is about the easiest transport in Cuba. There are two bus lines, each with one bus a day, seats on demand (for dollars, $8 and $12), and lots of taxis. Renting a car is expensive and is not necessary. Within the town of Viñales everything can be reached on foot. All the climbing areas are within walking distance or a short cab ride. Hotel rooms start at about $50. Casas are $20-$25 in Havana, and less in Viñales. Meals are $6-$8 in casas; breakfast is $2 or $3. Beer or a glass of rum is $1. In Havana, figure on a total $40/per/day, and in Viñales about $30/per/day. For $500, it is possible to spend a day or two in Havana, and the rest of a two week trip in Viñales. Save $15 for the taxi ride to the airport and another $20 for the airport tax. Havana: Casas Particulares Climbers have travel and accommodations in La Habana and Viñales totally wired. In Havana, climbers usually stay at a couple of casas particulares. A favorite is Ana María Fariñas and Victor Reinoso. (Salvador Allende (Carlos Tercero) No. 1005, e/Requena y Almendares, Plaza, tel. 79-62-60; or anacaribe@yahoo.com. Reasonable prices. The rooms are air conditioned. Several have kitchens. Each has a private entrance and private bath. And there is a shaded, enclosed patio for those hot afternoons or to meet friends. Most important, Ana María the quintessential Cubana, savy, sassy, and openhearted. Another classic Cubana who rents is Esther Cardoso, the mother of Aníbal Fernández Cardoso, one of the Cuban climbers. Esther has beautifully reconstructed a colonial home with high ceilings, balconies, and shuttered windows. Esther is an actress, teacher, and director. Her living room can include cross section of modern Cuban culture. Aguila #367, e/Neptuno y San Miguel, Centro Habana. 62 04 01. agudin@bn.gov.cu. Additional notes The only currency travellers will need in Cuba is U.S. greenbacks. Other than newspapers, magazines, books, vitamins, and medicine, Cubans and visitors can buy almost anything with dollars. Bottled water is available, although tap water is potable and safe. |
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