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| To date, the routes lie within three main areas in the Viñales Valley: Mogote del Valle, El Palenque, and La Costanera. A brief description is included below, but for full route information see www.cubaclimbing.com Mogote del Valle More than half of the routes in Valle de Viñales are on the walls of the Mogote del Valle. The closest routes are about one kilometer from town. The Mogote del Valle can be seen to the northwest from Viñales, with the gold wall of Milenio easily identifiable. Huevos Verde con Jamon is a five star route that starts just outside the cave at the base of Milenio Wall. The route climbs up to and then out the side of the first roof. Overhanging jugs continue up the face for two pitches and join a sloping ramp. The 11c crux is moving onto the ramp. As a display of the degree of overhang, on the initial attempt of the first pitch on top rope, Armando Menocal came off at the roof and he flew out more than 50’ over the valley. “Huevos Verde Con Jamon” was named by the Cubans for John Middendorf from the name of the Dr. Susse classic, Green Eggs and Ham, which John brought, in Spanish, and read from aloud. (5.11c, 2 pitches, 60M. First ascent: Vitalio Echazábal, Aníbal Fernández, Carlos Pinelo, Armando Menocal) El Palenque El Palenque lies four kilometers north of town and is easy to reach on foot, cab or bike. At the center is El Palenque Disco, which may be the cushiest, indulgent “advance base camp” in climbing. El Palenque is a bar and disco in a cave opening. The bar provides rest and refreshments after climbs and bouldering in heat and rain; a trad route has been done in the cave. El Palenque is home to Cuba Libre, the archetypal Cuba climb: long, ascending a tufa column, through stalactites, finishing on a spectacular roof. It is also one of Craig Luebben’s acrobatic routes. The final roof is split by an off-width section, which Luebben climbed by jamming his feet above him, cutting loose his hands, and reaching through to the next handjam. On his first attempt, with a crowd of campesinos watching, Luebben let out long, gruesome screams as he hung from his feet hundreds of feet above them. Then, he fell. It appeared to all that he had been stuck in the crack. His slippers were stuck, just as he wanted them to be, but he was slowly, inexorably slipping out of the shoes. Luebben returned to the ground, switched to lace-up shoes, and completed the first ascent. Cuba Libre, 5.11d/12a, 3 pitches, 50M. First ascent: Craig Luebben, George Bracksieck La Costanera La Costanera is a spectacular cathedral chamber of limestone. Its north facing walls are the best place to climb when it is hot. Usually, the north coast and ocean can be seen from the upper belays of La Costanera routes. Its 120M walls have yielded the greatest number of long routes of 4 to 5 pitches. It is likely that La Costanera and the route of Flyin’ Hyena were the scene of the first climbing in Cuba. In 1999, when Cameron Cross, Craig Luebben, and Armando Menocal reached the top of the first pitch on the first ascent, they were surprised to discover three rusty pitons, a loop of tied perlon, and a carabineer: an obvious rappel. Eventually a nearby campesino told them this story: about 15 to 20 years ago two Spanish women spent two days reaching that point on the wall. He said they went no farther, although Luebben thought he saw pin scars on the next pitch. It does mean that these Españolas came to Cuba equipped with pitons and hammers, and started out by tackling one of the longest, most intimidating, and elegant lines. Bravo! The pitons, perlon, and biner have been in place and should not be removed. Flyin’ Hyena has everything: a stunning setting, history, big wall rope management techniques, and acrobatic climbing. But the name? According to Luebben, “Flyin’ Hyena was an expression among Silvia’s (his wife) group of Italian friends for someone who was really going for it, the “flyin’ (falling), but still having great fun (laughing like a hyena).” Flyin’ Hyena, 5.12a/b, 5 pitches, 120M. |
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