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Crépe de Oucèra Alti

By: Roberto Casanova
Country: Italy, Region: Veneto, Town: Cortina d’Ampezzo (Belluno)

From a sports climbing point of view, the Crépe de Oucèra is one of the most important crags in the Cortina area and, together with the nearby Cinque Torri, to be considered one of the most important crags in the entire eastern Dolomites.

Located at 1800m, the Crépe de Oucèra offers 70 pitches from 6a to 8a+. these are renowned for their beauty, ease of access and orientation, ensuring the crag's popularity not only in the hot summer months.

The rock is solid with plenty of small weathered pockets and flakes, offering a variety of different climbing styles up the smooth vertical, slightly overhanging and extremely overhanging walls.

Despite the fact that the crag is almost 20 years old, the bolting is excellent and the distance between the bolts varies, according to the difficulty and characteristics of each individual pitch.

A somewhat easier alternative to the Crépe de Oucèra Alta are the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi, located a few hairpin bends lower down. Immersed in the green forest, the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi offer 80 pitches from 5a to 6b.

GETTING THERE

From Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 4km to reach a long straight section and the Alta Via 1 path. Park here and take the rightmost path up to the crag in just 5 minutes

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo by Roberto Casanova, Cierre Edizioni

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BEST TIME OF YEAR

The Crépe are located between 1700 and 1800m. The crag faces SSE and is therefore ideal during spring, summer and autumn. Climbing is possible in winter if there is little snow.

HEIGHT

1800 m

ROPE

70 m rope

GRADES

6a - 8a+

ROCK

Dolomite

ORIENTATION

SSE

LINK

scoiattoli.org

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